There are many binocular features to consider when choosing binoculars and all the options available are important.
What power binoculars do you need?
All binoculars have a pair of numbers ##x##, for example 7x42. The first number is the power (magnification) and the second number is the size of the lens (42mm). In this example, the 7 means 7 times closer than seeing the subject with only your own eyesight. The lower the magnification, the brighter the subject will appear and the wider the area that you will be able to see. So, decide on what you are normally looking at: birds, landscape, etc. The more powerful binocular will be harder to keep steady because of the small FOV (field of view). If you are going to use the binoculars at dusk a lot, you will need a larger lens size (maybe a 50mm instead of the 42mm lens. The larger the lens size, the more light that is let in to your eyes.
Coated or non coated lens?
Coated lens also affects the brightness of the subject that you are looking at. Coated lenses increase the amount of light that will make it all the way through the binoculars to your eyes. The more light, the more contrast. Do you need that option? The coating of the lens will increase the cost of the binoculars.
How close do you need the binoculars to focus?
Always test the binoculars to see how close you can focus. Look around the store and focus on the closest subject that you can find. Measure the distance from your binoculars to the subject. Do you need to focus any closer (wildlife, mushrooms, etc.)?
How wide do you need the field of view (FOV)?
Field of view is the width of the area you see through the binoculars. Take two different pairs of binoculars (7x42 and 8x42) and look at the same subject. You will see that the 7x42 has a large FOV than the more powerful 8x42 binoculars (the larger the magnification, the smaller the FOV). How important is it for you to have a larger FOV? The smaller the FOV, the harder it is to spot smaller subjects (birds for instance).
How heavy is the binoculars?
Are you going to be hiking with the binoculars? Are the binoculars going to be carried in a backpack or are they going to be worn all the time? Weight is a very important factor when choosing binoculars.
Do you need water resistant or waterproof binoculars?
Are you going to be kayaking with your binoculars or just walking through the rain? Waterproof binoculars are more expensive than water resistant binoculars.
How durable are the binoculars?
Are you going to be climbing, hiking, kayaking or just walking and not putting your binoculars in situations that you need extreme durability? If you need durability, choose the binoculars that have that feature.
How do the binoculars feel in your hands? There are adjustments for focusing the binoculars. Are the adjustments and the balancing weight of the binoculars comfortable in your hands?
Do you wear glasses?
If you wear glasses, the binoculars must have eyepieces that have eyecups that either retract or roll down. This is important for people who wear glasses and will wear them when using binoculars. Check to make sure that the eyecups are replaceable if they become damaged.
What is the warrantee and the repair service for the binoculars?
Some expensive binocular manufacturers will give you a new pair of binoculars when they can't repair them when they become damaged. Check out the reliability of the manufacturer.
Bino Straps
The bino straps are a great accessory for your binoculars. Make sure there are bino straps available for the pair of binoculars you choose.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your binoculars correctly because incorrect methods might damage your binoculars and choose your binoculars wisely.
Write By Philip Tulin
Sunday, 2 September 2007
Backpacking Clothes
The easiest way to ruin a perfectly good backpacking experience is to have clothing that does not perform well. The clothes must be comfortable and protect you from the elements (wind, rain, snow, etc.). Layering your clothes is the most effective way to keep your backpacking experience both happy and safe.
Layering:
Layering uses a number of types of clothing to create a comfortable and effective result. By mixing and matching the types of layers, almost every situation that can occur while backpacking is covered. By having the right combinations of layers, the backpack will be lighter to carry. Layering consists of lightweight clothing, wicking clothing, inner layer, mid layer, insulation layer and outer layer (jacket, etc.) Wicking clothing keeps you dry by pulling the sweat from your skin and transferring the wetness to the outer layers. Layering will keep you warm when it is cold and keep you cool when it is hot.
Layer Types:
Inner layer clothing wicks the moisture from your skin. This layer is usually worn when there is the possibility of aerobic activity and during moderate to cold conditions. Mid layer clothing protects you during good weather conditions and should be comfortable. Mid layer clothing are usually long sleeve shirts, T-shirts, etc. Insulation layer clothing is for additional warmth during colder environments. It is worn when conditions become extremely cold and the inner and the mid layer does not provide enough warmth. All the layers worn together should be comfortable and not too bulky. The outer layer is a rain jacket, hiking jacket, rain pants, hiking pants, etc. The outer layer protects you from the rain, wind, snow, etc. You should always pack outer layer clothing with you even if you don't think you might need that layer. During emergency situations, the outer layer might be the layer that protects you from a disaster.
Types Of Materials:
There are many choices of fabrics for all the layers. The most important reason to use a specific fabric is based on the type of weather conditions that might occur. If the weather is hot, cotton absorbs moisture and also takes a while to dry. During hot weather, cotton is very effective. Capilene® and Polypropylene are very effective wicking fabrics. They evaporate quickly. Fleece is very effective for cold situations and some fleece have wind stopping ability built into the fabric. The outer layer choice is the most complicated. Do you need water resistant/breathable, waterproof/non-breathable or waterproof/breathable? There are always pros and cons associated with each choice. The water resistant/breathable outerware is usually the least expensive, for shorter trips in good weather and the chance of inclement weather is low. The waterproof/non-breathable is totally waterproof, but also is much hotter to wear because the outerware does not let the sweat or heat out. They must have openings to vent out the sweat or heat. The waterproof/breathable outerware is the most expensive and work in the most variety of situations.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your backpacking clothes correctly because incorrect methods might damage your backpacking clothes and choose your backpacking clothes wisely.
By Philip Tulin
Layering:
Layering uses a number of types of clothing to create a comfortable and effective result. By mixing and matching the types of layers, almost every situation that can occur while backpacking is covered. By having the right combinations of layers, the backpack will be lighter to carry. Layering consists of lightweight clothing, wicking clothing, inner layer, mid layer, insulation layer and outer layer (jacket, etc.) Wicking clothing keeps you dry by pulling the sweat from your skin and transferring the wetness to the outer layers. Layering will keep you warm when it is cold and keep you cool when it is hot.
Layer Types:
Inner layer clothing wicks the moisture from your skin. This layer is usually worn when there is the possibility of aerobic activity and during moderate to cold conditions. Mid layer clothing protects you during good weather conditions and should be comfortable. Mid layer clothing are usually long sleeve shirts, T-shirts, etc. Insulation layer clothing is for additional warmth during colder environments. It is worn when conditions become extremely cold and the inner and the mid layer does not provide enough warmth. All the layers worn together should be comfortable and not too bulky. The outer layer is a rain jacket, hiking jacket, rain pants, hiking pants, etc. The outer layer protects you from the rain, wind, snow, etc. You should always pack outer layer clothing with you even if you don't think you might need that layer. During emergency situations, the outer layer might be the layer that protects you from a disaster.
Types Of Materials:
There are many choices of fabrics for all the layers. The most important reason to use a specific fabric is based on the type of weather conditions that might occur. If the weather is hot, cotton absorbs moisture and also takes a while to dry. During hot weather, cotton is very effective. Capilene® and Polypropylene are very effective wicking fabrics. They evaporate quickly. Fleece is very effective for cold situations and some fleece have wind stopping ability built into the fabric. The outer layer choice is the most complicated. Do you need water resistant/breathable, waterproof/non-breathable or waterproof/breathable? There are always pros and cons associated with each choice. The water resistant/breathable outerware is usually the least expensive, for shorter trips in good weather and the chance of inclement weather is low. The waterproof/non-breathable is totally waterproof, but also is much hotter to wear because the outerware does not let the sweat or heat out. They must have openings to vent out the sweat or heat. The waterproof/breathable outerware is the most expensive and work in the most variety of situations.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your backpacking clothes correctly because incorrect methods might damage your backpacking clothes and choose your backpacking clothes wisely.
By Philip Tulin
Ground Pad
There are many ground pad features to consider when choosing a ground pad and all the options available are important.
The ground pad provides both insulation and cushioning for your comfort. If you don't use a ground pad, the sleeping bag will not perform up to the rated specifications. Some ground pads have an 'R' value rating that indicate their insulation properties.
What size, width and height do I need?
Ground pads lengths are available from 48" - 72", widths are available from 20" - 26" and heights are available from 1/2" - 2". There is a balance between comfort, packing size, seasonal use and weight that makes your decision difficult. What seasons are you going to use the ground pad? How much comfort do you need? What size do you need in relation to your body size? Can you use a shorter length than your body length? Do you need to save space in packing? Do you need a lightweight pad? The insulation qualities of a ground pad become especially important when camping in winter.
What size do I need when the ground pad is packed? Make sure you are aware of the size that the ground pad rolls or folds up to. If you only have a little room in your backpack, kayak, canoe, etc., make sure the pad will fit when packed.
What type of ground pads are available?
The most common ground pad types are:
Air Mattresses - The air mattress is the most comfortable but are seldom used for backpacking any more. The mattress, when deflated, is quite compact and provides adequate insulation in warmer temperature. But the mattress is subject to leaks or punctures and doesn't perform as well compared to all the other types of ground pads.
Closed Cell Foam - Do you have a lot of space to pack the ground pad? If you don't have extra space, this pad is not for you. The ground pad is bulky and only provides a minimal amount of cushioning. The closed cell foam ground pads are very lightweight, the warmest and will not soak up water.
Open Cell Foam - Do you have a lot of space to pack the ground pad? If you don't have extra space, this pad is not for you. This ground pad provides most of the warmth of a closed cell foam pad and more cushioning. But the open cell foam ground pads are bulky, heavy and will absorb water.
Self Inflating - These ground pads are the most popular because they are compact, provide good insulation and are as comfortable as an air mattress. The self inflating ground pads do not have to be blown up and they provide the same insulation as an open cell foam pad. They are heavier than the close cell pad. The self inflating ground pad can be used with a stuff sack to make the packed self inflating ground pad even smaller.
Never purchase a ground pad without trying it out and always make sure the pad will fit easily into your tent (along with other ground pads if more than one person is in your tent). Choose the right ground pad based on how you are going to use it.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your ground pad correctly because incorrect methods might damage your ground pad and choose a ground pad wisely.
Wriet by Philip Tulin
The ground pad provides both insulation and cushioning for your comfort. If you don't use a ground pad, the sleeping bag will not perform up to the rated specifications. Some ground pads have an 'R' value rating that indicate their insulation properties.
What size, width and height do I need?
Ground pads lengths are available from 48" - 72", widths are available from 20" - 26" and heights are available from 1/2" - 2". There is a balance between comfort, packing size, seasonal use and weight that makes your decision difficult. What seasons are you going to use the ground pad? How much comfort do you need? What size do you need in relation to your body size? Can you use a shorter length than your body length? Do you need to save space in packing? Do you need a lightweight pad? The insulation qualities of a ground pad become especially important when camping in winter.
What size do I need when the ground pad is packed? Make sure you are aware of the size that the ground pad rolls or folds up to. If you only have a little room in your backpack, kayak, canoe, etc., make sure the pad will fit when packed.
What type of ground pads are available?
The most common ground pad types are:
Air Mattresses - The air mattress is the most comfortable but are seldom used for backpacking any more. The mattress, when deflated, is quite compact and provides adequate insulation in warmer temperature. But the mattress is subject to leaks or punctures and doesn't perform as well compared to all the other types of ground pads.
Closed Cell Foam - Do you have a lot of space to pack the ground pad? If you don't have extra space, this pad is not for you. The ground pad is bulky and only provides a minimal amount of cushioning. The closed cell foam ground pads are very lightweight, the warmest and will not soak up water.
Open Cell Foam - Do you have a lot of space to pack the ground pad? If you don't have extra space, this pad is not for you. This ground pad provides most of the warmth of a closed cell foam pad and more cushioning. But the open cell foam ground pads are bulky, heavy and will absorb water.
Self Inflating - These ground pads are the most popular because they are compact, provide good insulation and are as comfortable as an air mattress. The self inflating ground pads do not have to be blown up and they provide the same insulation as an open cell foam pad. They are heavier than the close cell pad. The self inflating ground pad can be used with a stuff sack to make the packed self inflating ground pad even smaller.
Never purchase a ground pad without trying it out and always make sure the pad will fit easily into your tent (along with other ground pads if more than one person is in your tent). Choose the right ground pad based on how you are going to use it.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your ground pad correctly because incorrect methods might damage your ground pad and choose a ground pad wisely.
Wriet by Philip Tulin
Cook with Open Fire
Portable fuel-burning stoves are all the rage nowadays for hiking and camping. Between fire safety and the lack of available wood in most public camping areas, I suppose they have their place. But there's a certain mystique about cooking over a wood fire while camping that the little stoves can't duplicate. Besides, it's not really camping out unless you get smoke in your eyes a couple of times.
First, you have to build a fire and get a good bed of coals. It is the coals that you want to cook over rather than the fire itself. You will get less smoke and ashes that way, plus the heat is more consistent and controllable and you won't sear off your eyebrows. For the best coals, you should use the densest wood you can find. Oak, cedar, mesquite, pecan, or other hardwoods make good coals, while pines, aspen, and other light woods don't. Before you are ready to cook, you need to build up at least a couple of inches of live coals and then let the main fire settle down a little.
Ideally, both for fire safety and convenience, you should dig a fire pit at least 8-10 inches deep and around 2.5 feet square, bigger in both dimensions if you plan on staying a few days or if you plan on having a "bonfire" at night. Keep the dirt you remove in a pile to one side as you'll need it to cover the pit when you leave. There are several designs of fire pits, but the most convenient is the Keyhole Pit. With a Keyhole, you dig a little side chamber out from one edge of the main pit. While the main area is used for the fire itself, the side chamber is used for the actual cooking. The cooking chamber should extend a couple of feet (up wind) from the main fire and should be about a foot wide and only about 4 inches deep. When you're ready to start cooking, just shovel some coals from the fire to the side chamber.
The two ways to control your heat are to (1) add or subtract coals or (2) raise or lower your cooking pots or pans. I have used multiple cooking chambers before to obtain different cooking temperatures or just to get more cooking surface. It usually takes fewer coals than you might think for most types of cooking, but that's something you just get a feel for after a while. You can use a small grill over the coals, or you can pre-arrange rocks for the pot to sit on. If you use a grill, it should be easily moved so you can tend the bed of coals. For "car camping" where weight is not such an issue, a piece or two of heavy expanded metal will last forever and is much sturdier than any commercial grill I've ever seen.
One tip to minimize cookware and clean-up is to make some foil dinners before you leave home. These are pre-packaged meals ready to throw in a coal bed for a few minutes of cooking. You start with some heavy-duty aluminum foil, preferably a double thickness about 2 feet square after folding. Then you lay out a piece of meat (anything from ground round to steak) along with some potatoes and veggies like carrots, onions, or corn and your favorite seasonings. Then fold over the foil and crimp it several times at the seam and at both ends. What you should get is a tightly-wrapped, sealed-off meal inside the foil. Then later, just sprinkle a few coals on the ground and lay the package on top. Then cover with a few coals and wait about fifteen minutes. You can cook baked potatoes the same way but they take a little longer. I must emphasize I said a FEW coals. A little goes a long way, and everyone I know has eaten unrecognizable, charred hunks a couple of times before learning this lesson. When you're through, the fire will eat the foil and all you've got to clean is your fork.
Aluminum and other shiny cookware gets very dirty over a wood fire and is hard to keep from turning a permanent black. Here's a trick to help in that department. Before you put the pot on the fire, make a paste from water and powdered soap. Apply the paste to the bottom and up the sides of the pot. Now start cooking. The soot will all stick on the soap, which washes off very easily when you're through. Just don't rub the soap off by sliding the pot around on a grill, etc. On frying pans, you need to come up close to the lip with the paste. Just don't get any where it will fall into the food.
If you are car camping, try using a Dutch oven for baking or like a crock pot for stews and such. A true Dutch oven is a cast iron pot with three legs about an inch or two long, and a lid with a lip around the outer edge. Pots with no legs and no lip on the top are called ranch ovens and they are just regular cast iron cookware. Dutch ovens are available in several sizes from most sporting good/camping outlets. You set them on a shallow bed of coals and then sprinkle more coals on the lid. Just like the foil dinners, you should take it easy on the number of coals you use both underneath and on top. In addition to stews or casseroles, you can bake biscuits or cobblers that always taste better outdoors.
Here's a tip for the care and maintenance of your Dutch oven or any cast iron cookware. After washing, dry immediately. Then use a paper towel to wipe on a thin layer of vegetable oil (no animal fats) inside and out. Then put on the fire (or in a hot oven) for 4-5 minutes. This will cause the oil to glaze and bond to the iron, protecting it from rust and other bad things.
For clean-up at the campsite, I use a couple of 3-4 gallon galvanized buckets. I put these on a grate over the fire till one gets pretty warm. Then I pull it off and leave the other to come to a boil. I put soap in the warm one and use it to wash the dishes. After washing, most everything goes into a mesh laundry bag which is dipped into the boiling water a few times for rinsing. Then that bag goes into a muslin laundry bag to keep the dust and bugs off while it hangs in a tree and dries. The rinse water can be used as wash water next meal, or both buckets can be saved to drown the fire before filling in the pit.
For fire safety, you should keep the shovel stuck in the pile of dirt removed from the fire pit. Just don't trip on it in the dark. A little folding camp shovel works fine. And you can keep the buckets of wash water for the next meal near the fire pit as well. When you are ready to leave, police the area for trash and throw that into the pit. Then, drown the fire and fill in the fire pit. Remember, a good camper "leaves no trace".
I hope you have learned how to cook with an open fire while camping and enjoy your next hike into the great outdoors.
Write by Philip Tulin
First, you have to build a fire and get a good bed of coals. It is the coals that you want to cook over rather than the fire itself. You will get less smoke and ashes that way, plus the heat is more consistent and controllable and you won't sear off your eyebrows. For the best coals, you should use the densest wood you can find. Oak, cedar, mesquite, pecan, or other hardwoods make good coals, while pines, aspen, and other light woods don't. Before you are ready to cook, you need to build up at least a couple of inches of live coals and then let the main fire settle down a little.
Ideally, both for fire safety and convenience, you should dig a fire pit at least 8-10 inches deep and around 2.5 feet square, bigger in both dimensions if you plan on staying a few days or if you plan on having a "bonfire" at night. Keep the dirt you remove in a pile to one side as you'll need it to cover the pit when you leave. There are several designs of fire pits, but the most convenient is the Keyhole Pit. With a Keyhole, you dig a little side chamber out from one edge of the main pit. While the main area is used for the fire itself, the side chamber is used for the actual cooking. The cooking chamber should extend a couple of feet (up wind) from the main fire and should be about a foot wide and only about 4 inches deep. When you're ready to start cooking, just shovel some coals from the fire to the side chamber.
The two ways to control your heat are to (1) add or subtract coals or (2) raise or lower your cooking pots or pans. I have used multiple cooking chambers before to obtain different cooking temperatures or just to get more cooking surface. It usually takes fewer coals than you might think for most types of cooking, but that's something you just get a feel for after a while. You can use a small grill over the coals, or you can pre-arrange rocks for the pot to sit on. If you use a grill, it should be easily moved so you can tend the bed of coals. For "car camping" where weight is not such an issue, a piece or two of heavy expanded metal will last forever and is much sturdier than any commercial grill I've ever seen.
One tip to minimize cookware and clean-up is to make some foil dinners before you leave home. These are pre-packaged meals ready to throw in a coal bed for a few minutes of cooking. You start with some heavy-duty aluminum foil, preferably a double thickness about 2 feet square after folding. Then you lay out a piece of meat (anything from ground round to steak) along with some potatoes and veggies like carrots, onions, or corn and your favorite seasonings. Then fold over the foil and crimp it several times at the seam and at both ends. What you should get is a tightly-wrapped, sealed-off meal inside the foil. Then later, just sprinkle a few coals on the ground and lay the package on top. Then cover with a few coals and wait about fifteen minutes. You can cook baked potatoes the same way but they take a little longer. I must emphasize I said a FEW coals. A little goes a long way, and everyone I know has eaten unrecognizable, charred hunks a couple of times before learning this lesson. When you're through, the fire will eat the foil and all you've got to clean is your fork.
Aluminum and other shiny cookware gets very dirty over a wood fire and is hard to keep from turning a permanent black. Here's a trick to help in that department. Before you put the pot on the fire, make a paste from water and powdered soap. Apply the paste to the bottom and up the sides of the pot. Now start cooking. The soot will all stick on the soap, which washes off very easily when you're through. Just don't rub the soap off by sliding the pot around on a grill, etc. On frying pans, you need to come up close to the lip with the paste. Just don't get any where it will fall into the food.
If you are car camping, try using a Dutch oven for baking or like a crock pot for stews and such. A true Dutch oven is a cast iron pot with three legs about an inch or two long, and a lid with a lip around the outer edge. Pots with no legs and no lip on the top are called ranch ovens and they are just regular cast iron cookware. Dutch ovens are available in several sizes from most sporting good/camping outlets. You set them on a shallow bed of coals and then sprinkle more coals on the lid. Just like the foil dinners, you should take it easy on the number of coals you use both underneath and on top. In addition to stews or casseroles, you can bake biscuits or cobblers that always taste better outdoors.
Here's a tip for the care and maintenance of your Dutch oven or any cast iron cookware. After washing, dry immediately. Then use a paper towel to wipe on a thin layer of vegetable oil (no animal fats) inside and out. Then put on the fire (or in a hot oven) for 4-5 minutes. This will cause the oil to glaze and bond to the iron, protecting it from rust and other bad things.
For clean-up at the campsite, I use a couple of 3-4 gallon galvanized buckets. I put these on a grate over the fire till one gets pretty warm. Then I pull it off and leave the other to come to a boil. I put soap in the warm one and use it to wash the dishes. After washing, most everything goes into a mesh laundry bag which is dipped into the boiling water a few times for rinsing. Then that bag goes into a muslin laundry bag to keep the dust and bugs off while it hangs in a tree and dries. The rinse water can be used as wash water next meal, or both buckets can be saved to drown the fire before filling in the pit.
For fire safety, you should keep the shovel stuck in the pile of dirt removed from the fire pit. Just don't trip on it in the dark. A little folding camp shovel works fine. And you can keep the buckets of wash water for the next meal near the fire pit as well. When you are ready to leave, police the area for trash and throw that into the pit. Then, drown the fire and fill in the fire pit. Remember, a good camper "leaves no trace".
I hope you have learned how to cook with an open fire while camping and enjoy your next hike into the great outdoors.
Write by Philip Tulin
Water Bottle
Your water bottle is your link to life and how to choose water bottles becomes very important depending the length and the type of trip you expect to take. There are numerous types and shapes to consider and the correct water bottle is the one that will perform during your trip conditions. Water bottles are either rigid or collapsible and each has its own features and advantages. Collapsible water bottles take up less space when they are empty.
How Much Water Do You Need?
The size and shape of the water bottle is directly related to the amount of water you need each day and how much water you need in case you can't refill it for a period of time. Keep in mind that your water weighs approximately 8 pounds per gallon. Backpacking needs are quite different from kayaking needs. You will be able to carry more water weight during kayaking versus backpacking. Also take into consideration if you will be using a hydration pack along with the water bottles.
Storing Water Bottles:
If you are backpacking, will you be storing water along the way (and hiding the water bottles) for the return trip. If you are, you will be needing additional water bottles and the sizes of the water bottles will be dependant on the amount of water you will be needing to store.
Flexible Water Bottles:
Flexible water bottles that roll up to save space are used quite often while kayaking. The flexible water bottles fit very easily into small spaces in the kayak hatches. I usually am very cautious and place the filled flexible water bottles into a dry sack in case the water leaks or the bag breaks. I don't want the hatch filling up with water and potentially wet everything in the hatch even though most of the items are in dry bags, too. If you decide to use flexible water bottles while hiking, be aware that the bottles are harder to handle when you need some water and when the water fills the bag only half way.
Bottle Shapes: The shapes available are round or square and each have advantages depending on the use of the bottles. The round bottles fits into pockets on your backpack while the square bottles take up less space in your backpack.
Water Filters:
If you have a specific water filter, make sure that the bottles will connect directly to your water filter. If you haven't purchases a water filter yet, purchase the water filter first before selecting water bottles.
Materials:
Polycarbonate: These bottles are the most expensive bottles and they won't retain orders or flavors. They are more durable and won't taste like plastic. The bottles are usually clear.
Polyethylene:These bottles are inexpensive and might taste like plastic and retain odors. They will not crack easily.
Size Of The Bottle Mouth:
Depending on the type of hiking you do (day or overnight), the large mouth bottles can accommodate ice cubes (obviously not a factor during overnight hiking). Depending on the type of cooking you do, the smaller mouth bottles are easier to pour than the large mouth bottles. Little items that your need can be placed in large mouth bottles (if you don't need the bottles for water).
Wriet By Philip Tulin
How Much Water Do You Need?
The size and shape of the water bottle is directly related to the amount of water you need each day and how much water you need in case you can't refill it for a period of time. Keep in mind that your water weighs approximately 8 pounds per gallon. Backpacking needs are quite different from kayaking needs. You will be able to carry more water weight during kayaking versus backpacking. Also take into consideration if you will be using a hydration pack along with the water bottles.
Storing Water Bottles:
If you are backpacking, will you be storing water along the way (and hiding the water bottles) for the return trip. If you are, you will be needing additional water bottles and the sizes of the water bottles will be dependant on the amount of water you will be needing to store.
Flexible Water Bottles:
Flexible water bottles that roll up to save space are used quite often while kayaking. The flexible water bottles fit very easily into small spaces in the kayak hatches. I usually am very cautious and place the filled flexible water bottles into a dry sack in case the water leaks or the bag breaks. I don't want the hatch filling up with water and potentially wet everything in the hatch even though most of the items are in dry bags, too. If you decide to use flexible water bottles while hiking, be aware that the bottles are harder to handle when you need some water and when the water fills the bag only half way.
Bottle Shapes: The shapes available are round or square and each have advantages depending on the use of the bottles. The round bottles fits into pockets on your backpack while the square bottles take up less space in your backpack.
Water Filters:
If you have a specific water filter, make sure that the bottles will connect directly to your water filter. If you haven't purchases a water filter yet, purchase the water filter first before selecting water bottles.
Materials:
Polycarbonate: These bottles are the most expensive bottles and they won't retain orders or flavors. They are more durable and won't taste like plastic. The bottles are usually clear.
Polyethylene:These bottles are inexpensive and might taste like plastic and retain odors. They will not crack easily.
Size Of The Bottle Mouth:
Depending on the type of hiking you do (day or overnight), the large mouth bottles can accommodate ice cubes (obviously not a factor during overnight hiking). Depending on the type of cooking you do, the smaller mouth bottles are easier to pour than the large mouth bottles. Little items that your need can be placed in large mouth bottles (if you don't need the bottles for water).
Wriet By Philip Tulin
Sleeping Bag
You can have the best clothes, the best tent, the best food, the best backpack, but if your sleeping bag is not the right one, your whole outdoor experience will be ruined. There are many sleeping bag features to consider when choosing a sleeping bag and all the options available are important.
What is the best sleeping bag for you?
Here are the features for the best sleeping bag for you: 1) It performs in the temperature and climate that you camp. 2) It fits your sleeping habits. 3) It is made from the material that you like next to your skin. 3) It fits your outdoor experiences (camping, hiking, kayaking, snowshoeing, canoeing, car camping, etc.)
What seasons will you be camping?
Each season (4-Seasons, 3-Seasons, 1-Season) has a temperature related to that season. You can't choose a 4-Season sleeping bag to be effective during the summer, too. Choose a temperate rating for the sleeping bag based on the conditions you plan to camp in most often. A bag's temperature rating indicates the lowest temperature at which an occupant would be comfortable. But what is comfortable for one sleeper may not be for another. There is no industry standard for temperature ratings and they vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. Every temperature rating from a manufacturer assumes that a ground pad will be used with the sleeping bag. If you tend to be cold at night, you might need a lower rated sleeping bag. Select a 20 degree sleeping bag for your 3-Season experience, Zero (0) degree rating for cold weather/winter experience and minus 15-30 degrees for a winter experience.
What insulation do you prefer (down or synthetic)?
Which insulation is the warmest and which insulation is the best choice for you is for you to decide. Synthetic has recently approached most of the features down has, but they have one distinct advantage. They don't absorb moisture and so they don't lose the insulation factor when down becomes wet. Synthetic-filled bags cost less and are great for people who are allergic to down. For backpackers, synthetic bags weigh a little more and usually take up more space in your pack.
What shape sleeping bag do you prefer?
There are a few shapes to consider - Mummy, Rectangular, Semi-Rectangular. Mummy bags are the warmest, but they are the most confining sleeping bag. The mummy bag also has a hood to enclose your head. Rectangular are a lot more roomy and more comfortable. Two rectangular bags can also be zippered together to form a larger sleeping back for 2 people. Semi-Rectangular sleeping bags are warmer than the Rectangular and have more room than the Mummy sleeping bag. So it is a compromise between the 3 bags. There are also extra long sizes for people that are taller.
Moisture Proof?
Do you need an outside shell fabric that resists moisture and water? Are you going to be in places that need the extra protection?
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your sleeping bag correctly because incorrect methods might damage your sleeping bag and choose a sleeping bag wisely.
Write By Philip Tulin
What is the best sleeping bag for you?
Here are the features for the best sleeping bag for you: 1) It performs in the temperature and climate that you camp. 2) It fits your sleeping habits. 3) It is made from the material that you like next to your skin. 3) It fits your outdoor experiences (camping, hiking, kayaking, snowshoeing, canoeing, car camping, etc.)
What seasons will you be camping?
Each season (4-Seasons, 3-Seasons, 1-Season) has a temperature related to that season. You can't choose a 4-Season sleeping bag to be effective during the summer, too. Choose a temperate rating for the sleeping bag based on the conditions you plan to camp in most often. A bag's temperature rating indicates the lowest temperature at which an occupant would be comfortable. But what is comfortable for one sleeper may not be for another. There is no industry standard for temperature ratings and they vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. Every temperature rating from a manufacturer assumes that a ground pad will be used with the sleeping bag. If you tend to be cold at night, you might need a lower rated sleeping bag. Select a 20 degree sleeping bag for your 3-Season experience, Zero (0) degree rating for cold weather/winter experience and minus 15-30 degrees for a winter experience.
What insulation do you prefer (down or synthetic)?
Which insulation is the warmest and which insulation is the best choice for you is for you to decide. Synthetic has recently approached most of the features down has, but they have one distinct advantage. They don't absorb moisture and so they don't lose the insulation factor when down becomes wet. Synthetic-filled bags cost less and are great for people who are allergic to down. For backpackers, synthetic bags weigh a little more and usually take up more space in your pack.
What shape sleeping bag do you prefer?
There are a few shapes to consider - Mummy, Rectangular, Semi-Rectangular. Mummy bags are the warmest, but they are the most confining sleeping bag. The mummy bag also has a hood to enclose your head. Rectangular are a lot more roomy and more comfortable. Two rectangular bags can also be zippered together to form a larger sleeping back for 2 people. Semi-Rectangular sleeping bags are warmer than the Rectangular and have more room than the Mummy sleeping bag. So it is a compromise between the 3 bags. There are also extra long sizes for people that are taller.
Moisture Proof?
Do you need an outside shell fabric that resists moisture and water? Are you going to be in places that need the extra protection?
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your sleeping bag correctly because incorrect methods might damage your sleeping bag and choose a sleeping bag wisely.
Write By Philip Tulin
Camping Latern
When the time came to choose a camping lantern, I decided that I would choose the best camping lantern that I could afford based on the use of the camping lantern. Currently, there are candle, battery and gas lanterns available.
Room available
How much room is available to carry the lantern. Are you backpacking, kayaking or car camping? Do you have extra room or can you afford the extra weight of batteries? Gas lanterns are not practical if you will be hiking.
How much light do you really need?
Are you also going to using a headlamp?
Choose the same lantern as your stove
If you decide on using a gas lantern, select a gas lantern that uses the same kind of gas as your stove. There are a number of different types of fuel available, including propane, butane, dual fuel, and kerosene.
Noise level
Candle and battery lanterns are quieter than gas lanterns. Gas lanterns are noisy.
Brightness and type of light
Gas lanterns are the brightest and intensive. The amount of light from a gas lantern can be adjusted by the flame. The gas lanterns will also last longer than the candle lanterns. Battery lanterns have focused, adjustable lights, too.
Type of climate
Battery lanterns don't respond well in cold and freezing conditions.
Safety considerations
Battery lanterns are the only safe choice to use inside your tent. Both the candle and the gas lanterns are hot and have a risk of fire.
Battery Camping Lanterns
Battery lanterns display a lot of light, are convenient, safe and you can use rechargeable batteries (obviously not while on the trail). The amount of light can be adjusted and there are also flashlights that also become a lantern. These flashlights will hang right in the middle of your tent and produce enough light for your needs. You should also bring along an extra flashlight or lantern bulb. There are also LED lanterns available. LED lanterns last for a long time with 4 D batteries (almost 12 days). Battery lanterns have maximum durability compared to candle and gas lanterns.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your camping lantern correctly because incorrect methods might damage your camping lantern and choose your camping lantern wisely.
Write by Philip Tulin
Room available
How much room is available to carry the lantern. Are you backpacking, kayaking or car camping? Do you have extra room or can you afford the extra weight of batteries? Gas lanterns are not practical if you will be hiking.
How much light do you really need?
Are you also going to using a headlamp?
Choose the same lantern as your stove
If you decide on using a gas lantern, select a gas lantern that uses the same kind of gas as your stove. There are a number of different types of fuel available, including propane, butane, dual fuel, and kerosene.
Noise level
Candle and battery lanterns are quieter than gas lanterns. Gas lanterns are noisy.
Brightness and type of light
Gas lanterns are the brightest and intensive. The amount of light from a gas lantern can be adjusted by the flame. The gas lanterns will also last longer than the candle lanterns. Battery lanterns have focused, adjustable lights, too.
Type of climate
Battery lanterns don't respond well in cold and freezing conditions.
Safety considerations
Battery lanterns are the only safe choice to use inside your tent. Both the candle and the gas lanterns are hot and have a risk of fire.
Battery Camping Lanterns
Battery lanterns display a lot of light, are convenient, safe and you can use rechargeable batteries (obviously not while on the trail). The amount of light can be adjusted and there are also flashlights that also become a lantern. These flashlights will hang right in the middle of your tent and produce enough light for your needs. You should also bring along an extra flashlight or lantern bulb. There are also LED lanterns available. LED lanterns last for a long time with 4 D batteries (almost 12 days). Battery lanterns have maximum durability compared to candle and gas lanterns.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your camping lantern correctly because incorrect methods might damage your camping lantern and choose your camping lantern wisely.
Write by Philip Tulin
Hiking Boot
Whatever you decided to buy for hiking, your boots are the most important piece of gear to make your hiking pleasurable. If you have uncomfortable hiking boots that don't rise to the occasion, you will be greatly disappointed. And usually, you will be stuck with those hiking boots until you return from your trip. I was fortunate to bump into a small boot repair shop that was able to stretch my two hiking boots to make a little more room for my little toes. Your hiking boots should be your best friend during your trip.
Where to buy:
Never purchase your boots without trying them on and never purchase your hiking boots unles you can walk on an incline in the store. Walking on a flat service will not convince you to purchase the boots you are wearing.
Decide on the price:
Be firm on your budget, but also be realistic. You will use your hiking boots for quite a while if you treat them well, so purchase the best boots you can afford. You can always spend a lot more and a lot less.
Feet problems:
Do you currently have any feet problems - one foot a little bigger than the other, one toe bigger that the same toe on the the other foot, feet sweat, pronated ankles, low arches, etc. Everything must be taken into consideration as the wrong boot will accentuate a little problem. Do you get blisters easily?
Type of hiking:
What type of hiking do you plan to be doing? Are you going on day hikes (with or without a backpack)? Are you just hiking with a couple of water bottles using a fanny pack? Are you going out for a few days and will be carrying 40 to 50 pounds? Depending on the type of hiking you will be doing and depending on the conditions will determine the type of hiking boot to choose.
You will know:
Every hiking boot is not for everyone and the most popular and highest rated boot might not be for you. When you try on a pair of boots for the first time, trust how you feel. Don't make excuses in order to choose a particular pair of boots. If they don't feel right the first time you try them on, they are not right for you... no matter how much you want to choose them.
Weight of the the boots:
Good hiking boots don't have to weigh a lot and don't be confused if the boots are heavy. It doesn't necessarily mean that the boots are a great pair. Many boots are great even though they don't weigh a lot.
Bring your socks:
Always try on new hiking boots wearing the socks that you intend on wearing. Don't use the store socks as a different type of sock will definitely give you a different feeling altogether. The boots should be comfortable, fit securely around your instep and ankle, give you some wiggle room for your toes, but should not slide forward when walking down an incline. Always make sure that the laces are tied correctly and ask the retailer to show you selected tying methods to keep your boot snug. If your heal move away from the back of the boot, the boot might be too wide or the back heal pocket is not deep enough.
New foot bed:
Are you planning on replacing the current boot foot bed with a more supportive foot bed? If so, you must try the boots on with the new supportive foot bed.
Materials:
There are many types of materials and combinations of materials: leather (numerous kinds), synthetic, leather and material, Gore-Tex, etc. The type of hiking will determine you boot type. Leather boots will take a while to break in, so learn from the retailer which is the best way to break in the hiking boots you decide to choose.
Boot treads:
There are all different types of tread patterns and each tread is made for a different purpose. Ask the retailer about the tread pattern in the boot that you are about to choose. Or choose a particular hiking boot based on the tread pattern that your need.
Boot soles:
There are a few types of reinforced soles: cemented, stitched, stitched and cemented, etc. Make sure the soles are completely waterproof and can withstand the punishment that you are about to put these hiking boots through.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your hiking boots correctly because incorrect methods might damage your hiking boots and choose hiking boots wisely.
Write by Philip Tulin
Where to buy:
Never purchase your boots without trying them on and never purchase your hiking boots unles you can walk on an incline in the store. Walking on a flat service will not convince you to purchase the boots you are wearing.
Decide on the price:
Be firm on your budget, but also be realistic. You will use your hiking boots for quite a while if you treat them well, so purchase the best boots you can afford. You can always spend a lot more and a lot less.
Feet problems:
Do you currently have any feet problems - one foot a little bigger than the other, one toe bigger that the same toe on the the other foot, feet sweat, pronated ankles, low arches, etc. Everything must be taken into consideration as the wrong boot will accentuate a little problem. Do you get blisters easily?
Type of hiking:
What type of hiking do you plan to be doing? Are you going on day hikes (with or without a backpack)? Are you just hiking with a couple of water bottles using a fanny pack? Are you going out for a few days and will be carrying 40 to 50 pounds? Depending on the type of hiking you will be doing and depending on the conditions will determine the type of hiking boot to choose.
You will know:
Every hiking boot is not for everyone and the most popular and highest rated boot might not be for you. When you try on a pair of boots for the first time, trust how you feel. Don't make excuses in order to choose a particular pair of boots. If they don't feel right the first time you try them on, they are not right for you... no matter how much you want to choose them.
Weight of the the boots:
Good hiking boots don't have to weigh a lot and don't be confused if the boots are heavy. It doesn't necessarily mean that the boots are a great pair. Many boots are great even though they don't weigh a lot.
Bring your socks:
Always try on new hiking boots wearing the socks that you intend on wearing. Don't use the store socks as a different type of sock will definitely give you a different feeling altogether. The boots should be comfortable, fit securely around your instep and ankle, give you some wiggle room for your toes, but should not slide forward when walking down an incline. Always make sure that the laces are tied correctly and ask the retailer to show you selected tying methods to keep your boot snug. If your heal move away from the back of the boot, the boot might be too wide or the back heal pocket is not deep enough.
New foot bed:
Are you planning on replacing the current boot foot bed with a more supportive foot bed? If so, you must try the boots on with the new supportive foot bed.
Materials:
There are many types of materials and combinations of materials: leather (numerous kinds), synthetic, leather and material, Gore-Tex, etc. The type of hiking will determine you boot type. Leather boots will take a while to break in, so learn from the retailer which is the best way to break in the hiking boots you decide to choose.
Boot treads:
There are all different types of tread patterns and each tread is made for a different purpose. Ask the retailer about the tread pattern in the boot that you are about to choose. Or choose a particular hiking boot based on the tread pattern that your need.
Boot soles:
There are a few types of reinforced soles: cemented, stitched, stitched and cemented, etc. Make sure the soles are completely waterproof and can withstand the punishment that you are about to put these hiking boots through.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your hiking boots correctly because incorrect methods might damage your hiking boots and choose hiking boots wisely.
Write by Philip Tulin
Friday, 31 August 2007
How to Choose A First Aid Kit
By Philip Tulin © All rights reserved.
A first aid kit should always be carried with you even if you are just going on a day hike or a day paddle. You never know what can happen and a basic first aid kit will solve most minor bee sting, cut, headache, etc. Having your first aid with you can make a potentially ruined day into an enjoyable day. As the old saying goes "Be prepared".
How Many People Will Be Going With You?
Always make sure there is enough first aid treatments based on the number of people going with you. It does no good to only bring a few bandages when there is a greater potential of using some more bandages based on the number of people going with you.
How Long & How Dangerous:
The amount of first aid supplies you need is related to the number of days you will be on the trail and how dangerous the hike is. It pays to bring a little extra versus bringing not enough.
Know How To Use:
It doesn't do any good to bring first aid with you if you don't know how to use some of the items that you brought along. Make sure you also have a simple manual that explains how to treat some of the most common problems.
Pre-Assembled First-Aid Kits:
The easiest way to get started is to purchase a beginning kit. There are kits available for many types of hikes as well as for a specific number of people. Most kits have waterproof bags that can be refilled and reused. Add any additional supplies to fit your needs.
What To Include:
Your first aid supplies should include: bandages(assorted sizes and different kinds), tweezers, sunscreen, moleskin, gauze pads, splint, aspirin, wrapping tape, bee sting products, plastic gloves, sling, thermometer, knife, handy wipes, burn ointment, duct tape, mirror, prescription medicine, q-tips, dental floss, Purell and any other items that might be needed for the specific type of hike you are taking. There are an assortment of small sample items in the grocery store or in the pharmacies that fit well in the first aid kit. Each item is very small in size and they even have a starter first aid kit for about $1.00 that can help you get started.
Keep The Knowledge:
If you don't practice... you forget. If you don't use first aid skills... you forget. Keep reviewing and reading the first aid book and when the time comes, you will be ready.
A first aid kit should always be carried with you even if you are just going on a day hike or a day paddle. You never know what can happen and a basic first aid kit will solve most minor bee sting, cut, headache, etc. Having your first aid with you can make a potentially ruined day into an enjoyable day. As the old saying goes "Be prepared".
How Many People Will Be Going With You?
Always make sure there is enough first aid treatments based on the number of people going with you. It does no good to only bring a few bandages when there is a greater potential of using some more bandages based on the number of people going with you.
How Long & How Dangerous:
The amount of first aid supplies you need is related to the number of days you will be on the trail and how dangerous the hike is. It pays to bring a little extra versus bringing not enough.
Know How To Use:
It doesn't do any good to bring first aid with you if you don't know how to use some of the items that you brought along. Make sure you also have a simple manual that explains how to treat some of the most common problems.
Pre-Assembled First-Aid Kits:
The easiest way to get started is to purchase a beginning kit. There are kits available for many types of hikes as well as for a specific number of people. Most kits have waterproof bags that can be refilled and reused. Add any additional supplies to fit your needs.
What To Include:
Your first aid supplies should include: bandages(assorted sizes and different kinds), tweezers, sunscreen, moleskin, gauze pads, splint, aspirin, wrapping tape, bee sting products, plastic gloves, sling, thermometer, knife, handy wipes, burn ointment, duct tape, mirror, prescription medicine, q-tips, dental floss, Purell and any other items that might be needed for the specific type of hike you are taking. There are an assortment of small sample items in the grocery store or in the pharmacies that fit well in the first aid kit. Each item is very small in size and they even have a starter first aid kit for about $1.00 that can help you get started.
Keep The Knowledge:
If you don't practice... you forget. If you don't use first aid skills... you forget. Keep reviewing and reading the first aid book and when the time comes, you will be ready.
Thursday, 30 August 2007
Multitool
How to Choose A Multi-Use Tool
By Philip Tulin
You should never hike or backpack without a multi-use tool even if you are out on the trail for only a couple of hours. You never know when you will need one for repairs or just to remove a splinter from your hand. You have several options to consider: a knife or a multi-use tool. Purchase the best multi-tool or knife that you can afford as you won't regret spending the extra money. Someday, one of the features will make a big difference on the trail.
Weight And Size:
Some knives and multi-use tools are heavy and bulky so choose the lightest/smallest tool that will fit your needs.
Multi-use Tools:
The multi-use tool has an assortment of features that allow you to repair and handle the toughest of jobs. The tool can saw wood as well as repair with the plier, screwdrivers and other features. If you are on the trail for any extended period of time and you might need tough repairs, the multi-tool is the correct choice. A kayaking day trip should include a multi-use tool.
All Purpose Knives: The Swiss Army style knives have a lot of features in a small, compact tool. The knives are usually heavy and have toothpicks, knives, screwdrivers, scissors, pliers, etc. There are many models to choose from and each model is dedicated to a specific outdoor adventure. I carry the Swiss Army knife while kayaking and backpacking.
Folding Knives:
The folding knife is a knife that folds away to protect the blade. It is an easier knife to pack than the straight knives. Make sure the knife closes tightly and doesn't have a chance to open up on its own.
Straight Knives:
The straight knife can't fold away and is only used as a knife. There are no other features available. I use a straight knife attached in front on my PFD while kayaking. The straight knife can readily be pulled out of the holder and used to cut deck rigging, etc. that I might become tangled with. The straight knife should have a holder when placed in a backpack.
Figure It Out:
Figure out what you will need based on your hiking or kayaking plans and purchase no less. You won't regret it.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain multi-use tool correctly because incorrect methods might damage your multi-purpose tool and choose your multi-purpose tool wisely.
Leatherman, Gerber, Victorinox, most famous brand out there
By Philip Tulin
You should never hike or backpack without a multi-use tool even if you are out on the trail for only a couple of hours. You never know when you will need one for repairs or just to remove a splinter from your hand. You have several options to consider: a knife or a multi-use tool. Purchase the best multi-tool or knife that you can afford as you won't regret spending the extra money. Someday, one of the features will make a big difference on the trail.
Weight And Size:
Some knives and multi-use tools are heavy and bulky so choose the lightest/smallest tool that will fit your needs.
Multi-use Tools:
The multi-use tool has an assortment of features that allow you to repair and handle the toughest of jobs. The tool can saw wood as well as repair with the plier, screwdrivers and other features. If you are on the trail for any extended period of time and you might need tough repairs, the multi-tool is the correct choice. A kayaking day trip should include a multi-use tool.
All Purpose Knives: The Swiss Army style knives have a lot of features in a small, compact tool. The knives are usually heavy and have toothpicks, knives, screwdrivers, scissors, pliers, etc. There are many models to choose from and each model is dedicated to a specific outdoor adventure. I carry the Swiss Army knife while kayaking and backpacking.
Folding Knives:
The folding knife is a knife that folds away to protect the blade. It is an easier knife to pack than the straight knives. Make sure the knife closes tightly and doesn't have a chance to open up on its own.
Straight Knives:
The straight knife can't fold away and is only used as a knife. There are no other features available. I use a straight knife attached in front on my PFD while kayaking. The straight knife can readily be pulled out of the holder and used to cut deck rigging, etc. that I might become tangled with. The straight knife should have a holder when placed in a backpack.
Figure It Out:
Figure out what you will need based on your hiking or kayaking plans and purchase no less. You won't regret it.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain multi-use tool correctly because incorrect methods might damage your multi-purpose tool and choose your multi-purpose tool wisely.
Leatherman, Gerber, Victorinox, most famous brand out there
Camping Cookware
How To Choose Camping Utensils & Cookware
By Philip Tulin
The important considerations in choosing camping utensils and cookware are: Where you going to be camping, how long are you going to be camping and how many people do you have to cook for?
Cookware & utensil materials
There are a few material options available when choosing cookware & utensils and each one has its pros and cons.
Aluminum: Aluminum cookware is less expensive, lightweight and consistently a good conductor or heat. Meals are usually not burnt because the aluminum cookware will simmer on low heat. Unfortunately, aluminum will dent easily and it is linked to health problems (with acidic foods) in the non coated sets.
Stainless steel: Stainless steel cookware is more expensive, heavier and is not consistently a good conductor of heat as the aluminum (can burn food). It is much tougher than aluminum and doesn't dent as easily.
Titanium: Titanium cookware is the most expensive, extremely lightweight and the toughest of all the cookware. It does not cook as consistently as stainless steel.
Non-stick coatings: Non-stick coatings are only available on certain materials and certain cookware sets. The obvious advantage is that the food doesn't stick to the surface of the cookware, but it also scratches very easily. Once non-stick coatings are scratched, the coating doesn't work properly. Non-stick surfaces clean easily.
Plastic utensils, plates, bowls, etc. Plastic is inexpensive, lightweight and a perfect choice for food containers and utensils. But be very careful as some plastics might retain the smell of the food.
Utensils
You can take as little as a knife, a spoon, something to clean the pot and as much as fork, serving spoon, spatula, etc. Based on where you going to be camping, how long are you going to be camping, how many people do you have to cook for and what types of meals served will dictate the types of utensils needed. The least amount of utensils are needed if you're planning on eating dehydrated or canned meals.
Pot lifters
Make sure you have something to pick up the pots with. The handles that come on the pots might break or become too hot to pick up.
Sets or individual pieces
You can choose your cookware by purchasing a whole set and then selecting what to bring or purchase individual pieces. Each has its own pros and cons. Purchasing a set will be less expensive (but might be more expensive if you never use some of the pieces). Purchasing individual pieces will give you exactly what you need (but you might need other pieces at a later date). Cookware sets are designed to nest inside each other so less room is actually needed and the stove can be packed inside the smallest cookware so everything is in one place and protected.
Be creative
Lids can be plates or frying pans. Pots can be plates. Be sure to bring spice containers with you as spices will add to your meal flavor. Only bring what cookware you will really need, not what you think you might need. Just make sure you have a big enough pot to boil enough water when everyone wants a nice cup of hot coffee at the same time.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your camping cookware correctly because incorrect methods might damage your camping cookware and choose your camping cookware wisely.
Trangia is one of the best avaliable for cookware.
By Philip Tulin
The important considerations in choosing camping utensils and cookware are: Where you going to be camping, how long are you going to be camping and how many people do you have to cook for?
Cookware & utensil materials
There are a few material options available when choosing cookware & utensils and each one has its pros and cons.
Aluminum: Aluminum cookware is less expensive, lightweight and consistently a good conductor or heat. Meals are usually not burnt because the aluminum cookware will simmer on low heat. Unfortunately, aluminum will dent easily and it is linked to health problems (with acidic foods) in the non coated sets.
Stainless steel: Stainless steel cookware is more expensive, heavier and is not consistently a good conductor of heat as the aluminum (can burn food). It is much tougher than aluminum and doesn't dent as easily.
Titanium: Titanium cookware is the most expensive, extremely lightweight and the toughest of all the cookware. It does not cook as consistently as stainless steel.
Non-stick coatings: Non-stick coatings are only available on certain materials and certain cookware sets. The obvious advantage is that the food doesn't stick to the surface of the cookware, but it also scratches very easily. Once non-stick coatings are scratched, the coating doesn't work properly. Non-stick surfaces clean easily.
Plastic utensils, plates, bowls, etc. Plastic is inexpensive, lightweight and a perfect choice for food containers and utensils. But be very careful as some plastics might retain the smell of the food.
Utensils
You can take as little as a knife, a spoon, something to clean the pot and as much as fork, serving spoon, spatula, etc. Based on where you going to be camping, how long are you going to be camping, how many people do you have to cook for and what types of meals served will dictate the types of utensils needed. The least amount of utensils are needed if you're planning on eating dehydrated or canned meals.
Pot lifters
Make sure you have something to pick up the pots with. The handles that come on the pots might break or become too hot to pick up.
Sets or individual pieces
You can choose your cookware by purchasing a whole set and then selecting what to bring or purchase individual pieces. Each has its own pros and cons. Purchasing a set will be less expensive (but might be more expensive if you never use some of the pieces). Purchasing individual pieces will give you exactly what you need (but you might need other pieces at a later date). Cookware sets are designed to nest inside each other so less room is actually needed and the stove can be packed inside the smallest cookware so everything is in one place and protected.
Be creative
Lids can be plates or frying pans. Pots can be plates. Be sure to bring spice containers with you as spices will add to your meal flavor. Only bring what cookware you will really need, not what you think you might need. Just make sure you have a big enough pot to boil enough water when everyone wants a nice cup of hot coffee at the same time.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your camping cookware correctly because incorrect methods might damage your camping cookware and choose your camping cookware wisely.
Trangia is one of the best avaliable for cookware.
Fire
How to Build a Fire
"Know how to build a fire before you have to build a fire"
Fire is one of our most useful tools. Knowing and practicing how to build a fire, with or without matches, is a useful and essential skill to master.
When lost and alone in the wilderness, maintaining your health is essential to your survival. You must make sure that you're well hydrated and that you keep warm and dry. Use your fire for warmth, to keep animals at a distance, and as a signal to mark your spot for rescuers. A fire when you're lost can be a great comfort and moral booster.
I have read of one outdoors man who, when lost in the wilderness, would first build a small fire. His reasoning was that while involved in the act of building a fire he would remain calm, it would help keep him focused, and he could calmly assess his situation and create a plan of action through calm reasoning rather than panicked, knee-jerk reaction.
Considering Where to Build a FIre
Always be aware of your surroundings and take them into consideration. Don't build fire on wet ground, on wet rocks, under overhanging branches, or where surrounding material could ignite. In a natural disaster be alert to the possibility of leaky gas mains before risking even a spark.
If the ground is wet or snow covered build your fire atop other logs. A small breeze may be beneficial to the process to keep the fire going, but protect the tinder from the breeze until the tinder catches fire. Make sure the site of your fire pit is sheltered in windy weather with rocks, logs, or natural wind breaks. If you have already found or built shelter, then plan the place where you build your fire in relation to your shelter.
Fire Starting Materials
Tinder, kindling, and firewood should all be gathered before you begin to build a fire. Naturally all of your fire starting materials should be as dry as possible especially when forced to work without matches or a lighter. An effective fire starting method is to place your tinder beside a stick or rock that is three to six inches in height. As you gently nurse the flaming tinder slowly add fine kindling by allowing it to lean against the rock or stick over the kindling. Build your fire by gradually adding thicker pieces of kindling and slowly graduate to firewood.
Your goal is to build a small fire at first. It is easier for the tinder to catch kindling aflame if it is made into small bits and pieces. Whittle fine shavings from a piece of dry dead wood or leave the shavings attached to the stick on one end to make a fuzz stick. A fuzz stick is easy to make and burns hot. A big help in building a roaring fire.
Practice your Fire Starting Survival Skills
Don't assume that reading and memorizing these general fire starting tips alone is enough to see you through a tight situation requiring fire for your survival. Practice building fire to fine tune your personal techniques and give you the confidence of knowing that you have the ability to build a warm, crackling fire whenever the need arises.
Especially when you practice building fire without matches you will appreciate the fact that it can be done, but how much simplier and easier it is to plan ahead to have matches or fire starting aids available if possible.
More free useful fire starting tips and techniques are being added at The Survivor's Outpost. Pay a visit to pick up emergency survival tips and advice, or leave a post of your own thoughts and techniques to share with others.
"Know how to build a fire before you have to build a fire"
Fire is one of our most useful tools. Knowing and practicing how to build a fire, with or without matches, is a useful and essential skill to master.
When lost and alone in the wilderness, maintaining your health is essential to your survival. You must make sure that you're well hydrated and that you keep warm and dry. Use your fire for warmth, to keep animals at a distance, and as a signal to mark your spot for rescuers. A fire when you're lost can be a great comfort and moral booster.
I have read of one outdoors man who, when lost in the wilderness, would first build a small fire. His reasoning was that while involved in the act of building a fire he would remain calm, it would help keep him focused, and he could calmly assess his situation and create a plan of action through calm reasoning rather than panicked, knee-jerk reaction.
Considering Where to Build a FIre
Always be aware of your surroundings and take them into consideration. Don't build fire on wet ground, on wet rocks, under overhanging branches, or where surrounding material could ignite. In a natural disaster be alert to the possibility of leaky gas mains before risking even a spark.
If the ground is wet or snow covered build your fire atop other logs. A small breeze may be beneficial to the process to keep the fire going, but protect the tinder from the breeze until the tinder catches fire. Make sure the site of your fire pit is sheltered in windy weather with rocks, logs, or natural wind breaks. If you have already found or built shelter, then plan the place where you build your fire in relation to your shelter.
Fire Starting Materials
Tinder, kindling, and firewood should all be gathered before you begin to build a fire. Naturally all of your fire starting materials should be as dry as possible especially when forced to work without matches or a lighter. An effective fire starting method is to place your tinder beside a stick or rock that is three to six inches in height. As you gently nurse the flaming tinder slowly add fine kindling by allowing it to lean against the rock or stick over the kindling. Build your fire by gradually adding thicker pieces of kindling and slowly graduate to firewood.
Your goal is to build a small fire at first. It is easier for the tinder to catch kindling aflame if it is made into small bits and pieces. Whittle fine shavings from a piece of dry dead wood or leave the shavings attached to the stick on one end to make a fuzz stick. A fuzz stick is easy to make and burns hot. A big help in building a roaring fire.
Practice your Fire Starting Survival Skills
Don't assume that reading and memorizing these general fire starting tips alone is enough to see you through a tight situation requiring fire for your survival. Practice building fire to fine tune your personal techniques and give you the confidence of knowing that you have the ability to build a warm, crackling fire whenever the need arises.
Especially when you practice building fire without matches you will appreciate the fact that it can be done, but how much simplier and easier it is to plan ahead to have matches or fire starting aids available if possible.
More free useful fire starting tips and techniques are being added at The Survivor's Outpost. Pay a visit to pick up emergency survival tips and advice, or leave a post of your own thoughts and techniques to share with others.
Tuesday, 28 August 2007
How To Choose Trekking Poles
By Philip Tulin
Two sticks are better than one on the trail. Using a pair of hiking poles or trekking poles gives you balance and takes more stress off the lower body joints. The poles are designed to provide extra stability and to spread the load on your legs and on your arms. You end up in better shape since the poles burn additional calories. The grips and straps are designed so you can push down on them to assist yourself on the trail, but also for quick release if the pole gets stuck between rocks or roots. Always try to use the hiking poles in a store or use a demo model outdoors if it is at all possible.
What type of grip?
There are many types of grips: Rubber, Cork, Plastic and a new Foam material. Plastic is the least expensive and not very practical or efficient. Rubber is more expensive than the plastic grip and is efficient. The rubber grip will be a little colder than the cork grip, more tiring and will become slippery due to sweaty hands. The cork grip is the most efficient, warmer, not slippery, is very comfortable and is the most expensive. Try all types of grips to determine which grip is the best for you. Some hiking poles have an extra section for the grip underneath the grip so that you can shorten the length of the poles by just gripping the poles below the grip (so you don't have to shorten the poles each time).
What angle for the grip?
Most of the hiking poles are straight, but some have a grip that has an angle of about 15 degrees. The angled grip is supposed to help your wrist from getting tired and overused since your wrist does not go back and forth when hiking. I have not used the angled grip so I do not have an opinion on that type of model. The straight grips are the most popular (and less expensive), but try them both to see if the angled pole is right for you.
What type of strap and grip?
Grip and strap designs differ for the type of activity you are doing (fitness walking or hiking). Select the grip and strap to match your activity. Check to make sure that the strap is easily adjusted, even with heavy gloves on. You don't want to have to remove your gloves on a very cold day to start adjusting your straps. A quick-release mechanism for the strap is very useful for emergencies.
Adjustable or non-adjustable height poles?
If you are using your hiking poles for hiking and not for a walk in the park, your poles must be adjustable. If you are not sharing your poles with anyone and the walks are flat, then you can use the non-adjustable height poles. Adjustable hiking poles either have 2 or 3 adjustable sections. The 3 section hiking poles collapse into a smaller length (good for traveling and storing in your backpack). Each manufacturer has a unique type of mechanism to adjust the height of the hiking pole. Take the pole apart and look at how the locking device functions. Make sure you can adjust the length of the hiking poles with your heavy gloves on if you need to when it is cold outside. If you want to be safe, purchase an extra locking mechanism for safety reasons when you are using your poles.
Anti-shock or no shock system?
When the pole hits the ground, the anti-shock system in the pole can reduce the shock. Some poles actually use a spring in each pole to act as shock absorber. The anti-shock system will weigh more, so if weight is a factor, choose the poles that have no shocks. But the anti-shock system can increase your comfort in using the poles. Make sure the poles that you choose can turn the shocks on or off.
The tips and baskets?
There are usually at least 2 or 3 types of baskets for hiking poles: smaller baskets for hiking on dirt, sand, rocks, etc., a large baskets for snow and the largest basket for deep powder snow. The larger baskets will keep the hiking poles from sinking deeply in the snow. There is usually a carbide tip on the hiking pole. Make sure the tip can be replaced by you if it is broken accidentally. Usually there will also be rubber tips available to place over the carbide tip if you just want to go for a walk on the sidewalk or on pavement. Make sure the baskets can be changed, too.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your hiking poles correctly because incorrect methods might damage your hiking poles and choose your hiking poles wisely
Two sticks are better than one on the trail. Using a pair of hiking poles or trekking poles gives you balance and takes more stress off the lower body joints. The poles are designed to provide extra stability and to spread the load on your legs and on your arms. You end up in better shape since the poles burn additional calories. The grips and straps are designed so you can push down on them to assist yourself on the trail, but also for quick release if the pole gets stuck between rocks or roots. Always try to use the hiking poles in a store or use a demo model outdoors if it is at all possible.
What type of grip?
There are many types of grips: Rubber, Cork, Plastic and a new Foam material. Plastic is the least expensive and not very practical or efficient. Rubber is more expensive than the plastic grip and is efficient. The rubber grip will be a little colder than the cork grip, more tiring and will become slippery due to sweaty hands. The cork grip is the most efficient, warmer, not slippery, is very comfortable and is the most expensive. Try all types of grips to determine which grip is the best for you. Some hiking poles have an extra section for the grip underneath the grip so that you can shorten the length of the poles by just gripping the poles below the grip (so you don't have to shorten the poles each time).
What angle for the grip?
Most of the hiking poles are straight, but some have a grip that has an angle of about 15 degrees. The angled grip is supposed to help your wrist from getting tired and overused since your wrist does not go back and forth when hiking. I have not used the angled grip so I do not have an opinion on that type of model. The straight grips are the most popular (and less expensive), but try them both to see if the angled pole is right for you.
What type of strap and grip?
Grip and strap designs differ for the type of activity you are doing (fitness walking or hiking). Select the grip and strap to match your activity. Check to make sure that the strap is easily adjusted, even with heavy gloves on. You don't want to have to remove your gloves on a very cold day to start adjusting your straps. A quick-release mechanism for the strap is very useful for emergencies.
Adjustable or non-adjustable height poles?
If you are using your hiking poles for hiking and not for a walk in the park, your poles must be adjustable. If you are not sharing your poles with anyone and the walks are flat, then you can use the non-adjustable height poles. Adjustable hiking poles either have 2 or 3 adjustable sections. The 3 section hiking poles collapse into a smaller length (good for traveling and storing in your backpack). Each manufacturer has a unique type of mechanism to adjust the height of the hiking pole. Take the pole apart and look at how the locking device functions. Make sure you can adjust the length of the hiking poles with your heavy gloves on if you need to when it is cold outside. If you want to be safe, purchase an extra locking mechanism for safety reasons when you are using your poles.
Anti-shock or no shock system?
When the pole hits the ground, the anti-shock system in the pole can reduce the shock. Some poles actually use a spring in each pole to act as shock absorber. The anti-shock system will weigh more, so if weight is a factor, choose the poles that have no shocks. But the anti-shock system can increase your comfort in using the poles. Make sure the poles that you choose can turn the shocks on or off.
The tips and baskets?
There are usually at least 2 or 3 types of baskets for hiking poles: smaller baskets for hiking on dirt, sand, rocks, etc., a large baskets for snow and the largest basket for deep powder snow. The larger baskets will keep the hiking poles from sinking deeply in the snow. There is usually a carbide tip on the hiking pole. Make sure the tip can be replaced by you if it is broken accidentally. Usually there will also be rubber tips available to place over the carbide tip if you just want to go for a walk on the sidewalk or on pavement. Make sure the baskets can be changed, too.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your hiking poles correctly because incorrect methods might damage your hiking poles and choose your hiking poles wisely
How To Choose A Camping Stove
By Philip Tulin
The important considerations in choosing a camping stove are: Where you going to be camping and how many people do you have to cook for?
Size and weight
Camping stoves can weigh from a couple of ounces to many pounds. The stove that you would carry for backpacking is completely different from the stove used while car camping. Keep in mind that the weight of the lightweight burners do not include the fuel (either a fuel cartridge or tank).
Automatic push button ignition
Many lightweight burners come with a push button ignition. Always carry matches in case the ignition becomes defective and does not light the burner. The larger stoves have two burners for cooking two items at the same time and those stoves are usually used for car camping or boating, etc.
Carrying case
Most lightweight burners come with their own bag to protect the burner from becoming damaged. If the burner does not have a bag, purchase a padded bag for protection.
Fuel is available
Whatever fuel needs to be used with the stove (Propane, Butane, Isobutene, White Gas, etc.), be sure that the places you intend to camp have access to fuel in case you need extra fuel.
Duel features
Some fuel can accommodate a lantern head which allows both cooking and the use of a night light. This is an extra option even though the lantern head must be purchased, too.
Adjustable flame
A knob or little bar will allow the stove to be adjusted to different flames. This makes cooking much easier.
Wind screens
Another option available for the camping stove is a wind screen which will not only block the wind, but also will help to heat the water and food faster since the wind screen traps the heat.
Propane, Butane or Isobutene canister fuel
These fuels are the easiest to use; turn the gas on and push the ignition and the stove is lit. The disadvantage of these fuels is that the canisters have to be deposed of properly. When the can is partially empty, it takes longer to boil the same amount of water and the stove does not function properly in below freezing weather. These fuels tend to simmer better and they are clean burning. When the burner is removed from the canister, the canister reseals itself.
Liquid fuel
Liquid tanks can be refilled, work better in colder weather and burn hotter. They tend to be more expensive than the lightweight burners, larger and heavier. The liquid fuel stoves can use a few different fuel types which is an advantage if certain types of fuel are not readily available. You should always have a second tank available if your only tank becomes unusable.
Choosing the right camping stove for your needs will add to your camping enjoyment. Choosing the wrong camping stove will turn your cooking into a nightmare. Don't forget to learn how to maintain your camping stove correctly because incorrect methods might damage your camping stove.
The important considerations in choosing a camping stove are: Where you going to be camping and how many people do you have to cook for?
Size and weight
Camping stoves can weigh from a couple of ounces to many pounds. The stove that you would carry for backpacking is completely different from the stove used while car camping. Keep in mind that the weight of the lightweight burners do not include the fuel (either a fuel cartridge or tank).
Automatic push button ignition
Many lightweight burners come with a push button ignition. Always carry matches in case the ignition becomes defective and does not light the burner. The larger stoves have two burners for cooking two items at the same time and those stoves are usually used for car camping or boating, etc.
Carrying case
Most lightweight burners come with their own bag to protect the burner from becoming damaged. If the burner does not have a bag, purchase a padded bag for protection.
Fuel is available
Whatever fuel needs to be used with the stove (Propane, Butane, Isobutene, White Gas, etc.), be sure that the places you intend to camp have access to fuel in case you need extra fuel.
Duel features
Some fuel can accommodate a lantern head which allows both cooking and the use of a night light. This is an extra option even though the lantern head must be purchased, too.
Adjustable flame
A knob or little bar will allow the stove to be adjusted to different flames. This makes cooking much easier.
Wind screens
Another option available for the camping stove is a wind screen which will not only block the wind, but also will help to heat the water and food faster since the wind screen traps the heat.
Propane, Butane or Isobutene canister fuel
These fuels are the easiest to use; turn the gas on and push the ignition and the stove is lit. The disadvantage of these fuels is that the canisters have to be deposed of properly. When the can is partially empty, it takes longer to boil the same amount of water and the stove does not function properly in below freezing weather. These fuels tend to simmer better and they are clean burning. When the burner is removed from the canister, the canister reseals itself.
Liquid fuel
Liquid tanks can be refilled, work better in colder weather and burn hotter. They tend to be more expensive than the lightweight burners, larger and heavier. The liquid fuel stoves can use a few different fuel types which is an advantage if certain types of fuel are not readily available. You should always have a second tank available if your only tank becomes unusable.
Choosing the right camping stove for your needs will add to your camping enjoyment. Choosing the wrong camping stove will turn your cooking into a nightmare. Don't forget to learn how to maintain your camping stove correctly because incorrect methods might damage your camping stove.
How To Choose GPS Receiver
GPS is short for for Global Positioning System. By use of the network of 24 satellites that constantly circle the earth, a GPS receiver calculates your location (latitude, longitude, and altitude) using information from three or more of the GPS satellites. This allows you to know where you are (and to navigate to a destination) anywhere on earth. A GPS receiver can take your outdoor adventures further than ever, but make sure to also bring a map of the area with you. Never trust a GPS to help your navigate your entire outdoor adventure since all electrical equipment malfunctions.
The GPS allows you to mark any special place that you would like to return to with a waypoint. This allows you, next time, to find your way back to that special place without getting lost. Just remember the GPS usually has trouble receiving satellite transmissions deep in the woods with high trees, underground, underwater and indoors.
WAAS technology
Make sure the GPS has WAAS (Wide Area Augmentation System) technology. WAAS technology allows the GPS to give you accuracy within 3 meters.
Multi-channel design
Single-channel GPS receivers are outdated and the GPS that you should consider should have a parallel multi-channel design. The GPS has a specific circuit dedicated to a single satellite signal. This allows the GPS to lock in your position fast and accurately with easier navigation through tougher terrain. Take the GPS outside (if you are able to) to see how fast the GPS locks into at least 3 satellites.
GPS memory
The more internal memory the GPS has, the more information that can be stored - waypoints, routes, POI (Points Of Interest), maps, etc. Make sure the GPS has at least 32MB or more of memory if you are going to use mapping. If you are going to use the GPS for sea as well as land, more memory will allow the GPS to get to street-level on land for exact directions. Most memory will be fixed (built into the GPS), but some GPS receivers have removable memory cards.
Waterproof or water resistant?
If you are going to use the GPS for kayaking and canoeing and the GPS is water resistant, a special see-through drybag made especially for a GPS has to be used. Water resistant will be acceptable for all other types of outdoor adventure activities such as hiking and backpacking.
Batteries and battery life?
What type of batteries are used with the GPS? Are they normal rechargeable AA batteries or are they special manufacturer batteries? Extra batteries must be carried along at all times just in case. How long do the batteries last? Is there a battery saver mode (sleep mode)? Do you have to turn the GPS on and off each time to save the batteries? How long can the GPS remain on without turning the receiver off before the battery power runs out?
Map or non-mapping?
The least expensive GPS is the Non-Mapping receiver that just includes a plotter screen that displays overhead the waypoints, the POI (Points of Interest - cities, gas stations, lighthouses, buoy markers, parks, etc.) and routes. No maps are displayed in this receiver. This receiver is actually quite effective for sea kayaking or hiking. The price of this receiver makes this receiver very attractive. A Base Map GPS (the next expensive GPS) displays all the information as the non-mapping unit, but also displays major roads, coastlines, lakes, rivers, highway exits, etc. Mapping GPS receivers bring the GPS to its highest level - total map control with real land and sea maps, marine navigation, restaurants, street addresses, topography, trails and much more (most expensive). You can actually navigate to an exact street address using a map. Usually all maps are downloaded from a CD (extra $). It is really your choice on which type of GPS fits your needs. Remember GPS technology changes very rapidly and the $500 unit that you purchase last year will be sold for $150 next year (or it may not even be available any more). All receivers will get you from point A, to B, to C and to D. If you also want your GPS to be used as navigation for your car, then you must choose the Mapping GPS. I use my GPS for kayaking and hiking and I decided that the Non-Mapping GPS fits my needs quite effectively. Since I must still bring a waterproof map of the area, I prefer to use the waterproof maps as I can see the whole area much better than a GPS screen.
Other features?
There are many other features, too numerous to mention, that are available on a GPS. Some include compass, altimeter, high and low tides, moon phases, communication (2-way radio built in), etc. Find out about all the extra features and one of them might be important to you.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your GPS correctly because incorrect methods might damage your GPS and choose a GPS wisely. Always remember to remove the batteries out of the GPS if you are not going to use it for over 6 months (GPS set up might have to be done again when the batteries are replaced).
The GPS allows you to mark any special place that you would like to return to with a waypoint. This allows you, next time, to find your way back to that special place without getting lost. Just remember the GPS usually has trouble receiving satellite transmissions deep in the woods with high trees, underground, underwater and indoors.
WAAS technology
Make sure the GPS has WAAS (Wide Area Augmentation System) technology. WAAS technology allows the GPS to give you accuracy within 3 meters.
Multi-channel design
Single-channel GPS receivers are outdated and the GPS that you should consider should have a parallel multi-channel design. The GPS has a specific circuit dedicated to a single satellite signal. This allows the GPS to lock in your position fast and accurately with easier navigation through tougher terrain. Take the GPS outside (if you are able to) to see how fast the GPS locks into at least 3 satellites.
GPS memory
The more internal memory the GPS has, the more information that can be stored - waypoints, routes, POI (Points Of Interest), maps, etc. Make sure the GPS has at least 32MB or more of memory if you are going to use mapping. If you are going to use the GPS for sea as well as land, more memory will allow the GPS to get to street-level on land for exact directions. Most memory will be fixed (built into the GPS), but some GPS receivers have removable memory cards.
Waterproof or water resistant?
If you are going to use the GPS for kayaking and canoeing and the GPS is water resistant, a special see-through drybag made especially for a GPS has to be used. Water resistant will be acceptable for all other types of outdoor adventure activities such as hiking and backpacking.
Batteries and battery life?
What type of batteries are used with the GPS? Are they normal rechargeable AA batteries or are they special manufacturer batteries? Extra batteries must be carried along at all times just in case. How long do the batteries last? Is there a battery saver mode (sleep mode)? Do you have to turn the GPS on and off each time to save the batteries? How long can the GPS remain on without turning the receiver off before the battery power runs out?
Map or non-mapping?
The least expensive GPS is the Non-Mapping receiver that just includes a plotter screen that displays overhead the waypoints, the POI (Points of Interest - cities, gas stations, lighthouses, buoy markers, parks, etc.) and routes. No maps are displayed in this receiver. This receiver is actually quite effective for sea kayaking or hiking. The price of this receiver makes this receiver very attractive. A Base Map GPS (the next expensive GPS) displays all the information as the non-mapping unit, but also displays major roads, coastlines, lakes, rivers, highway exits, etc. Mapping GPS receivers bring the GPS to its highest level - total map control with real land and sea maps, marine navigation, restaurants, street addresses, topography, trails and much more (most expensive). You can actually navigate to an exact street address using a map. Usually all maps are downloaded from a CD (extra $). It is really your choice on which type of GPS fits your needs. Remember GPS technology changes very rapidly and the $500 unit that you purchase last year will be sold for $150 next year (or it may not even be available any more). All receivers will get you from point A, to B, to C and to D. If you also want your GPS to be used as navigation for your car, then you must choose the Mapping GPS. I use my GPS for kayaking and hiking and I decided that the Non-Mapping GPS fits my needs quite effectively. Since I must still bring a waterproof map of the area, I prefer to use the waterproof maps as I can see the whole area much better than a GPS screen.
Other features?
There are many other features, too numerous to mention, that are available on a GPS. Some include compass, altimeter, high and low tides, moon phases, communication (2-way radio built in), etc. Find out about all the extra features and one of them might be important to you.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your GPS correctly because incorrect methods might damage your GPS and choose a GPS wisely. Always remember to remove the batteries out of the GPS if you are not going to use it for over 6 months (GPS set up might have to be done again when the batteries are replaced).
How to Choose a Right Backpack?
By Mats Lundkvist
Undoubtedly, backpack is an essential gear for every outdoor event to carry your world along with you. Experts believe that when it comes to choosing a right backpack a good rule of thumb is, "Buy right and pack light." There is a large variety available in the market ranging from expensive to cheap, lightweight to ultra-lightweight and highly fashionable to real basic. So it may turn out to be a real daunting and challenging task when it comes to choosing a right backpack for your outdoor activity. Most of us don’t know what exactly a right backpack is.
Well, a right backpack is the one that sits comfortably on your shoulders and back and make you comfortable to carry your load during long and short trips alike. To select a right backpack you need to consider many things, such as comfort, load distribution on your spine, important features and functionalities you required in your back pack and finally the budget. Among other things, comfort should be on your first priority, because you are buying backpack for comfortable journey. Therefore, to make a good selection decide which feature is important for you, how long is your journey, what is the actual weight you wish to carry etc.
Literally, there is a large variety available in the market to choose from, such as crush resistance, frameless backpack, internal & external backpack, lumbar & torso packs, lightweight, single strap & double strap backpacks, infant & child backpacks, hydration etc. Remember, they are all different so try them actually to see which ones suit you better. Before answering these questions, some important elements should be considered, such as purpose of your trip, duration of your trip along with the capacity you'll need and the features you demand in a backpack.
First of all, remember the golden rule of backpacking "buy right and pack light". That means you should buy the right backpack according to your needs and pack it light with essential things only. A right backpack is the one with the right size to fit your torso. It is the first and most important step to safe backpack use. If you can bring one of your friends with you while buying any backpack then it is ok, otherwise ask the salesperson to help you measure your backpack properly.
Next important point can be to purchase adjustable backpacks. Nowadays market is full of good quality adjustable backpacks. No doubt, adjustable back systems are great, but will cost you a bit extra than your bulk standard pack. Actually, adjustable backpacks will allow you to set the height and weight of the pack in the perfect position on your back. Either you can set it yourself or ask your friend or salesperson to adjust and fit your pack on your back by sliding it up and down until you are comfortable. So, when you feel it is right, you lock it off.
Next is to choose the correct frame size. Remember every backpack is useless (regardless of your good height and top quality of backpack) unless it has a correct frame size according to your body and shape. Gone were the days when people think ‘one-size-fits-all’—it far from the truth. Experts strongly believe that your torso size and your overall height are two completely separate measurements when it comes to backpacks. Actually Wayne Gregory was the first backpack designer who thought seriously about the importance of correct frame size to fit your torso.
According to him, your correct frame size can be found by measuring your torso from the seventh vertebra down the spine to the point in the small of your back which is horizontally level with the top of your hip bones. To find this point, use your fingers to trace the hip bone upwards till you feel the point where the top edge of your hip bones curve inwards, on the side of the hip, creating something of a shelf. This measurement is the torso length, especially useful to consider those packs with non-adjustable back system. In fact this system that is used throughout the outdoor industry today to measure the exact body size and to determine the correct frame’s size.
Similarly, another important consideration is proper fit of waist belt by knowing its correct size. In simpler words, the hip belt is meant for hips and not for your waist. Therefore hip belt should rest on your hipbone, not on your waist, because if it is on your waist then you will carry too much weight on your shoulder. In the same way if it is too low, it is bound to interfere with your walking. Quite frankly, both are undesirable. Ideally with a full pack on, the top edge of the waist belt should ride one inch above the top of the hip bone. Lastly, you should also pay attention to shoulder straps. These days many good quality backpacks are available in the market with adjustable shoulder straps. Backpacks with self-adjustable shoulder are regarded as top backpacks, because in these backpacks the shoulder straps can be rotated to accommodate individual neck and shoulder shapes.
Well folks, these were just few considerations for choosing a right backpack for your hiking or trekking. Your backpack contains all of your surviving things in a wilderness so you always try to select a good and comfortable backpack. The only cause behind the selection of an expensive backpack is comfort, so while purchasing any backpack, do some research to find the pack that's right for you.
Sourcing from Buzle
Undoubtedly, backpack is an essential gear for every outdoor event to carry your world along with you. Experts believe that when it comes to choosing a right backpack a good rule of thumb is, "Buy right and pack light." There is a large variety available in the market ranging from expensive to cheap, lightweight to ultra-lightweight and highly fashionable to real basic. So it may turn out to be a real daunting and challenging task when it comes to choosing a right backpack for your outdoor activity. Most of us don’t know what exactly a right backpack is.
Well, a right backpack is the one that sits comfortably on your shoulders and back and make you comfortable to carry your load during long and short trips alike. To select a right backpack you need to consider many things, such as comfort, load distribution on your spine, important features and functionalities you required in your back pack and finally the budget. Among other things, comfort should be on your first priority, because you are buying backpack for comfortable journey. Therefore, to make a good selection decide which feature is important for you, how long is your journey, what is the actual weight you wish to carry etc.
Literally, there is a large variety available in the market to choose from, such as crush resistance, frameless backpack, internal & external backpack, lumbar & torso packs, lightweight, single strap & double strap backpacks, infant & child backpacks, hydration etc. Remember, they are all different so try them actually to see which ones suit you better. Before answering these questions, some important elements should be considered, such as purpose of your trip, duration of your trip along with the capacity you'll need and the features you demand in a backpack.
First of all, remember the golden rule of backpacking "buy right and pack light". That means you should buy the right backpack according to your needs and pack it light with essential things only. A right backpack is the one with the right size to fit your torso. It is the first and most important step to safe backpack use. If you can bring one of your friends with you while buying any backpack then it is ok, otherwise ask the salesperson to help you measure your backpack properly.
Next important point can be to purchase adjustable backpacks. Nowadays market is full of good quality adjustable backpacks. No doubt, adjustable back systems are great, but will cost you a bit extra than your bulk standard pack. Actually, adjustable backpacks will allow you to set the height and weight of the pack in the perfect position on your back. Either you can set it yourself or ask your friend or salesperson to adjust and fit your pack on your back by sliding it up and down until you are comfortable. So, when you feel it is right, you lock it off.
Next is to choose the correct frame size. Remember every backpack is useless (regardless of your good height and top quality of backpack) unless it has a correct frame size according to your body and shape. Gone were the days when people think ‘one-size-fits-all’—it far from the truth. Experts strongly believe that your torso size and your overall height are two completely separate measurements when it comes to backpacks. Actually Wayne Gregory was the first backpack designer who thought seriously about the importance of correct frame size to fit your torso.
According to him, your correct frame size can be found by measuring your torso from the seventh vertebra down the spine to the point in the small of your back which is horizontally level with the top of your hip bones. To find this point, use your fingers to trace the hip bone upwards till you feel the point where the top edge of your hip bones curve inwards, on the side of the hip, creating something of a shelf. This measurement is the torso length, especially useful to consider those packs with non-adjustable back system. In fact this system that is used throughout the outdoor industry today to measure the exact body size and to determine the correct frame’s size.
Similarly, another important consideration is proper fit of waist belt by knowing its correct size. In simpler words, the hip belt is meant for hips and not for your waist. Therefore hip belt should rest on your hipbone, not on your waist, because if it is on your waist then you will carry too much weight on your shoulder. In the same way if it is too low, it is bound to interfere with your walking. Quite frankly, both are undesirable. Ideally with a full pack on, the top edge of the waist belt should ride one inch above the top of the hip bone. Lastly, you should also pay attention to shoulder straps. These days many good quality backpacks are available in the market with adjustable shoulder straps. Backpacks with self-adjustable shoulder are regarded as top backpacks, because in these backpacks the shoulder straps can be rotated to accommodate individual neck and shoulder shapes.
Well folks, these were just few considerations for choosing a right backpack for your hiking or trekking. Your backpack contains all of your surviving things in a wilderness so you always try to select a good and comfortable backpack. The only cause behind the selection of an expensive backpack is comfort, so while purchasing any backpack, do some research to find the pack that's right for you.
Sourcing from Buzle
How to Choose Tent
Choose tent is not so easy as you think. Choosing the wrong tent can make your life miserable. Especially in the wilderness (where few of us are at home anymore) the wrong equipment can kill you...or at least send you packing down the road to a cheap motel. So take a few minutes to learn to buy a tent. You'll thank yourself many times on cold or rainy nights to come.
How many seasons will you use the tent?
The Summer Tent is lightweight, designed for hot and humid weather only, have a lot of mesh for ventilation, has a rain fly that allows for ventilation and usually has 2 poles. The 3-Season Tent has 3 poles, a rain fly that does not allow ventilation and also protects from the weather, sometimes has a vestibule and sometimes has a skylight window for extra light. The tents are intended for spring, summer and fall. They perform well in wind and rain, though their designs are not suited to handle significant snow loads. If you're a recreational traveler and do the bulk of your camping between May and September, choose a 3-season tent. 4-Season Tent has 4 poles, skylight for extra lighting, a removable vestibule and usually mesh with zipper windows. They are built for prolonged exposure to severe winter conditions: high winds, heavy snow falls, cold temperatures, intense UV exposure, etc. Pick a tent equipped to withstand the harshest conditions you might encounter.
What type of activity will you be doing?
If you are car camping, the weight and size will not be a factor in deciding which tent you will choose. If you are kayaking, the weight and size might not be as much of a factor since the components of the tent can be packed into 2 kayaks (when you are paddling with a friend). Obviously, if you are backpacking, the weight of the tent is a major factor.
How much room do you need for your tent?
How many people will be sleeping in the tent? Are you tall, large, etc. Never purchase a tent without being able to get inside, move around, put your mattress in and generally see how that particular tent functions for you. If the tent is not available, use your sleeping pad as a gauge to how much floor space you will need and lay it out on a piece of paper based on the floor size of the tent. Do you need any extra room (maybe choose a 3 person tent for only 2 people)? If you are hiking, share the tent components as you hike. Someone can carry the poles, rainfly and another person can carry the tent.
How do you rate your preferences?
Rate all your preferences in the order of importance such as: price, size, weight, number of windows, ventilation, number and placement of doors, tent shape, vestibule, sturdiness, ease of set up, color, storage areas, waterproof (floor coating that extends about four to six inches up the sides which prevents the seepage of ground moisture), etc.
Is the tent waterproof?
Check to see if the tent you are considering is completely seamtaped to prevent leaks in the rain.
Will condensation appear inside the tent?
Condensation is something to be concerned about when choosing a tent. Ventilation alone will not prevent condensation. On double wall tents, look for panels of coated fabric, high coated side walls, or coated fabric doors, which always bead up with condensation. Full coverage rainflys often have heavy condensation, because there is no way to ventilate in poor weather. Look for awnings over the doors that can stay unzipped a little in the rain.
How easy is the tent to set up?
If the tent is available to set up, try to set it up!
Where are you going to store your gear?
Usually the definition of the size of the tent (3-person, 2-person) is the number of people that can comfortably sleep in the tent WITHOUT gear. Ask what the definition of the 2-person, 3-person tent is on the tent you are going to choose.
What is the tent material and what are the poles?
Poles are the main factor in determining a tent’s stability. Choose fiberglass poles for durability, and aluminum poles for lightweight strength. Polyester fabrics withstand exposure to ultraviolet rays better than nylon tents and are the best choice for long term campsites. Nylon tents are generally lighter in weight.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your tent correctly because incorrect methods might damage your tent and choose a camping tent wisely.
Sourcing from Outdooreyes.com
How many seasons will you use the tent?
The Summer Tent is lightweight, designed for hot and humid weather only, have a lot of mesh for ventilation, has a rain fly that allows for ventilation and usually has 2 poles. The 3-Season Tent has 3 poles, a rain fly that does not allow ventilation and also protects from the weather, sometimes has a vestibule and sometimes has a skylight window for extra light. The tents are intended for spring, summer and fall. They perform well in wind and rain, though their designs are not suited to handle significant snow loads. If you're a recreational traveler and do the bulk of your camping between May and September, choose a 3-season tent. 4-Season Tent has 4 poles, skylight for extra lighting, a removable vestibule and usually mesh with zipper windows. They are built for prolonged exposure to severe winter conditions: high winds, heavy snow falls, cold temperatures, intense UV exposure, etc. Pick a tent equipped to withstand the harshest conditions you might encounter.
What type of activity will you be doing?
If you are car camping, the weight and size will not be a factor in deciding which tent you will choose. If you are kayaking, the weight and size might not be as much of a factor since the components of the tent can be packed into 2 kayaks (when you are paddling with a friend). Obviously, if you are backpacking, the weight of the tent is a major factor.
How much room do you need for your tent?
How many people will be sleeping in the tent? Are you tall, large, etc. Never purchase a tent without being able to get inside, move around, put your mattress in and generally see how that particular tent functions for you. If the tent is not available, use your sleeping pad as a gauge to how much floor space you will need and lay it out on a piece of paper based on the floor size of the tent. Do you need any extra room (maybe choose a 3 person tent for only 2 people)? If you are hiking, share the tent components as you hike. Someone can carry the poles, rainfly and another person can carry the tent.
How do you rate your preferences?
Rate all your preferences in the order of importance such as: price, size, weight, number of windows, ventilation, number and placement of doors, tent shape, vestibule, sturdiness, ease of set up, color, storage areas, waterproof (floor coating that extends about four to six inches up the sides which prevents the seepage of ground moisture), etc.
Is the tent waterproof?
Check to see if the tent you are considering is completely seamtaped to prevent leaks in the rain.
Will condensation appear inside the tent?
Condensation is something to be concerned about when choosing a tent. Ventilation alone will not prevent condensation. On double wall tents, look for panels of coated fabric, high coated side walls, or coated fabric doors, which always bead up with condensation. Full coverage rainflys often have heavy condensation, because there is no way to ventilate in poor weather. Look for awnings over the doors that can stay unzipped a little in the rain.
How easy is the tent to set up?
If the tent is available to set up, try to set it up!
Where are you going to store your gear?
Usually the definition of the size of the tent (3-person, 2-person) is the number of people that can comfortably sleep in the tent WITHOUT gear. Ask what the definition of the 2-person, 3-person tent is on the tent you are going to choose.
What is the tent material and what are the poles?
Poles are the main factor in determining a tent’s stability. Choose fiberglass poles for durability, and aluminum poles for lightweight strength. Polyester fabrics withstand exposure to ultraviolet rays better than nylon tents and are the best choice for long term campsites. Nylon tents are generally lighter in weight.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your tent correctly because incorrect methods might damage your tent and choose a camping tent wisely.
Sourcing from Outdooreyes.com
Waterproof & Breathable Outerwear
Good outerwear is very important in mountain activity.
And one of the best for this is waterproof/breathable jacket.
Someone that going to the mountain will be better if he/she carry this outerwear.
Waterproof/breathable fabrics are defined as fabrics that will withstand over 1000 millimetres of water (9.8 kPa) pressure without leaking (see hydrostatic head), whilst allowing water vapour to pass through. Their most common use is in outdoor sports clothing and single wall tents, because of their ability to allow sweat to evaporate while remaining impervious to rain.
Rain room tests show that certain fabrics with less than 1000 millimetres hydrostatic head can keep you dry. Such garments tested in the Leeds University Rain Room show no signs of leakage after 4 hours of heavy simulated rain, 5 times heavy British rain. However, some garments made from fabrics that exceed 20 000mm have leaked due to the design of zips, hoods etc. Pressure may not be a good measure for rain wear, as the force of the rain drop on the fabric depends on how much the fabric moves. However, pressure is a good measure for sitting on wet ground or similar situations.
Fabric construction which directs water away from the body can be used to keep the wearer dry, rather than membranes, coatings or laminates. This means that perspiration can be moved away from the body too more effectively as both liquid water and water vapour can be directed. These are generally called Directional Waterproof fabrics rather than breathable.
The breathability of all waterproof/breathable fabrics is very dependant on conditions. When the fabrics become chilled or humidity is high, the dew point may be reached and condensation will occur.
Some common waterproof/breathable fabrics are:
Nikwax Directional Textiles as used by Páramo Directional Clothing Systems
Feather and Fur Technology supplied by FurTech
Gore-Tex
eVENT
Sympatex
3-ply Entrant-EV™membrane Mountain Equipment Co-op
Drilite Extreme, made by Mountain Equipment
HyVent, made by The North Face
H2No, made by Patagonia, Inc|Patagonia
Omni-Tech by Columbia
Conduit, made by Mountain Hardwear
Triplepoint Ceramic, made by Lowe Alpine
Precip, made by Marmot
Watergate, made by Outdoor Designs
Closely woven cotton
Polymer-encapsulated cotten EPIC, made by Nextec
Wax impregnated cotton or cotton/polyester mixes (such as those used in Barbour coats and Fjällräven's G-1000 fabric)
Epoxy (any maker,do not advertise in Wikipedia)
Hyper-Dri by Mark's work wearhouse
Ventile by Ventile
And one of the best for this is waterproof/breathable jacket.
Someone that going to the mountain will be better if he/she carry this outerwear.
Waterproof/breathable fabrics are defined as fabrics that will withstand over 1000 millimetres of water (9.8 kPa) pressure without leaking (see hydrostatic head), whilst allowing water vapour to pass through. Their most common use is in outdoor sports clothing and single wall tents, because of their ability to allow sweat to evaporate while remaining impervious to rain.
Rain room tests show that certain fabrics with less than 1000 millimetres hydrostatic head can keep you dry. Such garments tested in the Leeds University Rain Room show no signs of leakage after 4 hours of heavy simulated rain, 5 times heavy British rain. However, some garments made from fabrics that exceed 20 000mm have leaked due to the design of zips, hoods etc. Pressure may not be a good measure for rain wear, as the force of the rain drop on the fabric depends on how much the fabric moves. However, pressure is a good measure for sitting on wet ground or similar situations.
Fabric construction which directs water away from the body can be used to keep the wearer dry, rather than membranes, coatings or laminates. This means that perspiration can be moved away from the body too more effectively as both liquid water and water vapour can be directed. These are generally called Directional Waterproof fabrics rather than breathable.
The breathability of all waterproof/breathable fabrics is very dependant on conditions. When the fabrics become chilled or humidity is high, the dew point may be reached and condensation will occur.
Some common waterproof/breathable fabrics are:
Nikwax Directional Textiles as used by Páramo Directional Clothing Systems
Feather and Fur Technology supplied by FurTech
Gore-Tex
eVENT
Sympatex
3-ply Entrant-EV™membrane Mountain Equipment Co-op
Drilite Extreme, made by Mountain Equipment
HyVent, made by The North Face
H2No, made by Patagonia, Inc|Patagonia
Omni-Tech by Columbia
Conduit, made by Mountain Hardwear
Triplepoint Ceramic, made by Lowe Alpine
Precip, made by Marmot
Watergate, made by Outdoor Designs
Closely woven cotton
Polymer-encapsulated cotten EPIC, made by Nextec
Wax impregnated cotton or cotton/polyester mixes (such as those used in Barbour coats and Fjällräven's G-1000 fabric)
Epoxy (any maker,do not advertise in Wikipedia)
Hyper-Dri by Mark's work wearhouse
Ventile by Ventile
Compass?
A compass is an extremely simple device. A magnetic compass (as opposed to a gyroscopic compass) consists of a small, lightweight magnet balanced on a nearly frictionless pivot point. The magnet is generally called a needle. One end of the needle is often marked "N," for north, or colored in some way to indicate that it points toward north. On the surface, that's all there is to a compass.
The reason why a compass works is more interesting. It turns out that you can think of the Earth as having a gigantic bar magnet buried inside. In order for the north end of the compass to point toward the North Pole, you have to assume that the buried bar magnet has its south end at the North Pole, as shown in the diagram at the right. If you think of the world this way, then you can see that the normal "opposites attract" rule of magnets would cause the north end of the compass needle to point toward the south end of the buried bar magnet. So the compass points toward the North Pole.
To be completely accurate, the bar magnet does not run exactly along the Earth's rotational axis. It is skewed slightly off center. This skew is called the declination, and most good maps indicate what the declination is in different areas (since it changes a little depending on where you are on the planet).
The magnetic field of the Earth is fairly weak on the surface. After all, the planet Earth is almost 8,000 miles in diameter, so the magnetic field has to travel a long way to affect your compass. That is why a compass needs to have a lightweight magnet and a frictionless bearing. Otherwise, there just isn't enough strength in the Earth's magnetic field to turn the needle.
The "big bar magnet buried in the core" analogy works to explain why the Earth has a magnetic field, but obviously that is not what is really happening. So what is really happening?
No one knows for sure, but there is a working theory currently making the rounds. As seen on the above, the Earth's core is thought to consist largely of molten iron (red). But at the very core, the pressure is so great that this superhot iron crystallizes into a solid. Convection caused by heat radiating from the core, along with the rotation of the Earth, causes the liquid iron to move in a rotational pattern. It is believed that these rotational forces in the liquid iron layer lead to weak magnetic forces around the axis of spin.
It turns out that because the Earth's magnetic field is so weak, a compass is nothing but a detector for very slight magnetic fields created by anything. That is why we can use a compass to detect the small magnetic field produced by a wire carrying a current
Sourcing from Howstuffwork
The reason why a compass works is more interesting. It turns out that you can think of the Earth as having a gigantic bar magnet buried inside. In order for the north end of the compass to point toward the North Pole, you have to assume that the buried bar magnet has its south end at the North Pole, as shown in the diagram at the right. If you think of the world this way, then you can see that the normal "opposites attract" rule of magnets would cause the north end of the compass needle to point toward the south end of the buried bar magnet. So the compass points toward the North Pole.
To be completely accurate, the bar magnet does not run exactly along the Earth's rotational axis. It is skewed slightly off center. This skew is called the declination, and most good maps indicate what the declination is in different areas (since it changes a little depending on where you are on the planet).
The magnetic field of the Earth is fairly weak on the surface. After all, the planet Earth is almost 8,000 miles in diameter, so the magnetic field has to travel a long way to affect your compass. That is why a compass needs to have a lightweight magnet and a frictionless bearing. Otherwise, there just isn't enough strength in the Earth's magnetic field to turn the needle.
The "big bar magnet buried in the core" analogy works to explain why the Earth has a magnetic field, but obviously that is not what is really happening. So what is really happening?
No one knows for sure, but there is a working theory currently making the rounds. As seen on the above, the Earth's core is thought to consist largely of molten iron (red). But at the very core, the pressure is so great that this superhot iron crystallizes into a solid. Convection caused by heat radiating from the core, along with the rotation of the Earth, causes the liquid iron to move in a rotational pattern. It is believed that these rotational forces in the liquid iron layer lead to weak magnetic forces around the axis of spin.
It turns out that because the Earth's magnetic field is so weak, a compass is nothing but a detector for very slight magnetic fields created by anything. That is why we can use a compass to detect the small magnetic field produced by a wire carrying a current
Sourcing from Howstuffwork
Sunday, 26 August 2007
GPS Navigation
GPS – BEACON Guides give a list of key waypoints for GPS users (generally to 8 figures, i.e. 10 metre resolution) and the map is designed to be easily used with hand held GPS units – unique National Grid references with a two letter prefix are used. Given a suitable map, a good GPS receiver can be a very useful supplement to mountain navigation and make a map even more useful but should never be used as the only means of navigation at the expense of conventional map reading and compass skills. Check the batteries are fresh and take a spare set (or two). Lithium cells make good (but expensive) back-ups because they have a high capacity, long life, and work well at low temperatures.
Ideally store key route waypoints into your GPS (from your Beacon guide-map for example) before you set out. Waypoints may be entered into the GPS manually or via a computer using a suitable interface cable and software.
At the start of a walk check that the position report from your GPS receiver agrees with your known position, then at suitable points during the walk use the GPS to confirm your position on the map. If you are using stored GPS waypoints follow the ground (or path) between the waypoints, i.e. don’t expect to walk in a straight line, point to point. Become familiar with the operation of your GPS before using it in a serious situation. See the Mountain Navigation pages for more information.
Garmin is most famous handheld GPS that availabe, from eTrex family, to their newest handheld gps product Garmin GPSMAP 76 CSX and GPSMAP 60 CSX.
Magellan is good too. Magellan Explorist offer so many model from Explorist 100 to 600 and their other model for Meridian and Sportrak.
Ideally store key route waypoints into your GPS (from your Beacon guide-map for example) before you set out. Waypoints may be entered into the GPS manually or via a computer using a suitable interface cable and software.
At the start of a walk check that the position report from your GPS receiver agrees with your known position, then at suitable points during the walk use the GPS to confirm your position on the map. If you are using stored GPS waypoints follow the ground (or path) between the waypoints, i.e. don’t expect to walk in a straight line, point to point. Become familiar with the operation of your GPS before using it in a serious situation. See the Mountain Navigation pages for more information.
Garmin is most famous handheld GPS that availabe, from eTrex family, to their newest handheld gps product Garmin GPSMAP 76 CSX and GPSMAP 60 CSX.
Magellan is good too. Magellan Explorist offer so many model from Explorist 100 to 600 and their other model for Meridian and Sportrak.
Mobile Phone
Mobile (cellular) phone – mobile phones are well worth carrying in most areas and can be a very useful safety aid, but can not be relied on completely in the mountains as the terrain will often block the signal. Normally better reception is found on the tops, but sometimes the phone can be fooled by receiving too many signals from distant base stations. If a phone is carried check that the battery is fully charged before you set out, and know your own phone number.
Nokia, Sony Ericsson, Motorola, etc you can use one of they product.
In an emergency dial 999 from any phone (free) and ask for the police who will contact the local (volunteer) mountain rescue organisation. Be ready to give as many details as possible about your exact location (give grid ref if possible), your phone number, the number in the party, nature of injuries etc. Make sure that the emergency operator knows that you require mountain rescue assistance and what mountain area you are in, so that you can be put through to the correct control centre.
Nokia, Sony Ericsson, Motorola, etc you can use one of they product.
In an emergency dial 999 from any phone (free) and ask for the police who will contact the local (volunteer) mountain rescue organisation. Be ready to give as many details as possible about your exact location (give grid ref if possible), your phone number, the number in the party, nature of injuries etc. Make sure that the emergency operator knows that you require mountain rescue assistance and what mountain area you are in, so that you can be put through to the correct control centre.
Rucksack/Backpack
A good quality rucksack is a good investment. It is almost as important for your rucksack to fit comfortably as it is your boots. Make sure it is big enough to carry the maximum load you need to carry (depending on your level of activity) but don’t buy a bigger rucksack than you require – again take advice and try on as many as possible before making your choice, with comfort and stability being the prime requirements. A rucksack for scrambling needs to be stable, neat and uncluttered. No rucksack is completely waterproof, so protect important kit with resealable plastic bags and/or use rainproof sack liners / sack covers.
Deuter, Osprey, Gregory, Karrimor is some best backpack brand that we can trust
Deuter, Osprey, Gregory, Karrimor is some best backpack brand that we can trust
First Aid Kit
Make up a small kit in a waterproof pouch to suit personal requirements or buy one designed for walkers. Suitable contents could include a crepe bandage (very versatile), medium wound dressing, safety pins, safety razor blade, plasters, blister kit, Paracetamol, lipsalve, etc. Groups will need a more comprehensive kit.
Tip: make your first aid kit a more versatile emergency kit by adding other useful small items such as waterproof note paper, pencil, water sterilisation tablets, miniature tin opener / penknife, miniature survival compass (in case your main compass is lost or damaged), waterproof matches and striker, a little cash etc.
Tip: make your first aid kit a more versatile emergency kit by adding other useful small items such as waterproof note paper, pencil, water sterilisation tablets, miniature tin opener / penknife, miniature survival compass (in case your main compass is lost or damaged), waterproof matches and striker, a little cash etc.
Headtorches and Hand Torches
A head torch or small hand torch can prove a very useful aid to a safe return from the hill in failing light. Some head torches can be fitted with a halogen bulb which gives a bright white light which is good for map reading (but shorter battery life).
Torch and whistle – both are useful for attracting attention in an emergency. The internationally recognised distress signal is 6 long blasts / flashes repeated at one minute intervals. The reply is 3 blasts / flashes.
Headtorch/ Headlamp : Petzl, Silva, Blackdiamond, etc
Torches : Maglite, Streamlight, Princenton etc.
Torch and whistle – both are useful for attracting attention in an emergency. The internationally recognised distress signal is 6 long blasts / flashes repeated at one minute intervals. The reply is 3 blasts / flashes.
Headtorch/ Headlamp : Petzl, Silva, Blackdiamond, etc
Torches : Maglite, Streamlight, Princenton etc.
Map and compass
Essential whatever the weather. A good map scale for mountain walkers is 1:25,000, such as the OS Explorer series or the very easy to read HARVEY Superwalker maps. 1:50,000 scale maps (e.g OS Landranger) cover a larger area and are ideal for planning activities in an area, and in many cases give adequate detail for walkers, but usually the greater detail of the 1:25,000 scale maps will be beneficial on upland areas. The map used for mountain navigation needs to be capable of being used in high winds and rain and normally it will require some form of map case to protect it. The easy to use BEACON guide-maps use detailed HARVEY mapping, are weatherproof and are designed for use on the mountain with a compass and GPS if available. They can be easily slipped into a secure pocket for quick reference. Use a full sized map of the area to plan your routes in advance and take it with you in the rucksack.
A good walker’s compass (e.g. SILVA, Suunto, Recta) with a protractor base and a Romer scale for measuring distances on the map is essential for checking direction, and setting and walking on accurate bearings. Make a habit of keeping track of your position on the map even when the weather is good – it’s good practice, it adds to the enjoyment of the environment and helps a lot if the visibility suddenly deteriorates. See the Mountain Navigation pages for more on navigation with map and compass.
A good walker’s compass (e.g. SILVA, Suunto, Recta) with a protractor base and a Romer scale for measuring distances on the map is essential for checking direction, and setting and walking on accurate bearings. Make a habit of keeping track of your position on the map even when the weather is good – it’s good practice, it adds to the enjoyment of the environment and helps a lot if the visibility suddenly deteriorates. See the Mountain Navigation pages for more on navigation with map and compass.
Footwear
The choice of footwear depends on the seriousness of the route, but good quality, good fitting comfortable boots, are probably the most important part of your kit. Trainers do not support and protect the feet and ankles adequately, modern light-weight mountain walking boots do – don’t buy heavier boots than required for your intended level of activity, take advice from a good specialist retailer (look at the suppliers list on this site) and try on as many types as possible. Ask to have your feet measured and take your favourite walking socks with you to the shop. Alternatively ask the retailer to recommend suitable socks before trying the boots on.
Lowa, Scarpa, Berghaus, Asolo, Merrell, La Sportiva is some best brand out there.
Lowa, Scarpa, Berghaus, Asolo, Merrell, La Sportiva is some best brand out there.
Equipment Notes (1)
Clothing –
Several layers of clothing to cope with different conditions are better than one thick heavy layer. Conditions at altitude are almost always much colder and windier than in the valley. Warm and windproof clothing may not be required when climbing the mountain but they are likely to be required during rest stops, on the tops and during the descent later in the day. The layering principle of outdoor clothing is designed to cope with widely differing conditions by adding or removing layers as required. Pay particular attention to the base layer because this must wick moisture away from the body without causing too much heat loss. Thermal fabrics are much better than cotton in this respect and can be used as a T. shirt in hot weather. Fleece in its many guises is the most popular choice for the mid-layer. A windproof and waterproof outer layer is essential in all but the most stable summer conditions. Modern breathable fabrics are more versatile and comfortable than conventional non-breathable shell garments.
Jeans are far from ideal because they are heavy, cold and uncomfortable when wet. They should be avoided except for low level walks in fine weather. If using shorts it is advisable to carry alternative warmer leg wear. Remember that legs are very vulnerable to cuts and bruises during rock scrambling.
One of the best breathable fabrics is GoreTex, you can find so many brand use this fabrics.
Salewa, The North Face, Mountain Hardware, and etc.
Several layers of clothing to cope with different conditions are better than one thick heavy layer. Conditions at altitude are almost always much colder and windier than in the valley. Warm and windproof clothing may not be required when climbing the mountain but they are likely to be required during rest stops, on the tops and during the descent later in the day. The layering principle of outdoor clothing is designed to cope with widely differing conditions by adding or removing layers as required. Pay particular attention to the base layer because this must wick moisture away from the body without causing too much heat loss. Thermal fabrics are much better than cotton in this respect and can be used as a T. shirt in hot weather. Fleece in its many guises is the most popular choice for the mid-layer. A windproof and waterproof outer layer is essential in all but the most stable summer conditions. Modern breathable fabrics are more versatile and comfortable than conventional non-breathable shell garments.
Jeans are far from ideal because they are heavy, cold and uncomfortable when wet. They should be avoided except for low level walks in fine weather. If using shorts it is advisable to carry alternative warmer leg wear. Remember that legs are very vulnerable to cuts and bruises during rock scrambling.
One of the best breathable fabrics is GoreTex, you can find so many brand use this fabrics.
Salewa, The North Face, Mountain Hardware, and etc.
Essential Equipment for Hiking
Essential Equipment – Three Seasons
The following items are normally regarded as essential for high-level three season spring, summer and autumn but excluding winter conditions. Winter conditions in the mountains require additional equipment, normally including ice-axe and crampons, plus the appropriate skills and experience to use them properly:-
□ Waterproof / windproof outer layer (including protection for the legs)
□ Warm inner (base) & mid-layer(s)
□ Suitable footwear (see notes below)
□ Map, compass and watch
□ Torch / headtorch and whistle
□ First aid kit – lightweight and simple
□ Adequate food and drink – drinks bottle – flask of hot drink in cold weather
□ Rucksack to carry it in
Unless summer weather conditions are warm, dry and settled it is advisable to add:-
□ Hat / balaclava and gloves
□ Spare warm clothes (extra layers for very cold conditions or emergencies)
□ Survival bag or lightweight bivvy shelter for group use
□ High energy emergency food - only intended for use in an emergency
□ Resealable plastic bags to keep equipment dry
Depending on the season and the activity, the following may also be required:-
□ Helmet - advisable for some scrambling routes
□ Gaiters
□ Insect repellent
□ Good sunglasses / alpine goggles
□ Sunblock / sunhat
Other useful items include:-
□ Mobile / cellular phone (recommended)
□ Walking poles
□ GPS receiver and spare batteries
□ Camera (and film for film cameras)
Fluid intake – In warm summer conditions dehydration can be a real problem, the body will use much more water climbing than walking on the level. Take plenty to drink, as you become more experienced you will become better able to judge the amount of fluid your body requires under different conditions. Special water bottles (hydration packs) can be fitted to some rucksacks that allow you to drink via a tube on the move.
Choice of what to drink "on the hill" is mostly down to personal preference, but it is necessary to replace the sugars, salts and minerals lost through exercise and perspiration, hence an "isotonic" sports drink with a good balance of carbohydrates and salts may be beneficial and should also reduce the occurrence of muscle cramps.
Weight – avoid over packing your rucksack – choose the items to be taken carefully, don’t take more than required, and reduce the weight carried as much as possible without compromising your safety. Too much weight will slow you down, spoil your enjoyment of the day and make it more likely that you will become benighted! Getting the right compromise is something that comes with experience.
Note: Sourcing from Beacon Map Uk.
The following items are normally regarded as essential for high-level three season spring, summer and autumn but excluding winter conditions. Winter conditions in the mountains require additional equipment, normally including ice-axe and crampons, plus the appropriate skills and experience to use them properly:-
□ Waterproof / windproof outer layer (including protection for the legs)
□ Warm inner (base) & mid-layer(s)
□ Suitable footwear (see notes below)
□ Map, compass and watch
□ Torch / headtorch and whistle
□ First aid kit – lightweight and simple
□ Adequate food and drink – drinks bottle – flask of hot drink in cold weather
□ Rucksack to carry it in
Unless summer weather conditions are warm, dry and settled it is advisable to add:-
□ Hat / balaclava and gloves
□ Spare warm clothes (extra layers for very cold conditions or emergencies)
□ Survival bag or lightweight bivvy shelter for group use
□ High energy emergency food - only intended for use in an emergency
□ Resealable plastic bags to keep equipment dry
Depending on the season and the activity, the following may also be required:-
□ Helmet - advisable for some scrambling routes
□ Gaiters
□ Insect repellent
□ Good sunglasses / alpine goggles
□ Sunblock / sunhat
Other useful items include:-
□ Mobile / cellular phone (recommended)
□ Walking poles
□ GPS receiver and spare batteries
□ Camera (and film for film cameras)
Fluid intake – In warm summer conditions dehydration can be a real problem, the body will use much more water climbing than walking on the level. Take plenty to drink, as you become more experienced you will become better able to judge the amount of fluid your body requires under different conditions. Special water bottles (hydration packs) can be fitted to some rucksacks that allow you to drink via a tube on the move.
Choice of what to drink "on the hill" is mostly down to personal preference, but it is necessary to replace the sugars, salts and minerals lost through exercise and perspiration, hence an "isotonic" sports drink with a good balance of carbohydrates and salts may be beneficial and should also reduce the occurrence of muscle cramps.
Weight – avoid over packing your rucksack – choose the items to be taken carefully, don’t take more than required, and reduce the weight carried as much as possible without compromising your safety. Too much weight will slow you down, spoil your enjoyment of the day and make it more likely that you will become benighted! Getting the right compromise is something that comes with experience.
Note: Sourcing from Beacon Map Uk.
Tuesday, 14 August 2007
How to survive in the mountain
First
Key of succes for mountain survival is always have good preparation before start your journey.
You must have good equipment and skill for survive in mountain. Not only learn but practice your survival skills. Always carry your map, compass, water, fire starter, garbage bags, a hat and a signaling device. And make sure you know how to use them. Always tell someone when you are going to return.
Key of succes for mountain survival is always have good preparation before start your journey.
You must have good equipment and skill for survive in mountain. Not only learn but practice your survival skills. Always carry your map, compass, water, fire starter, garbage bags, a hat and a signaling device. And make sure you know how to use them. Always tell someone when you are going to return.
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