By Philip Tulin © All rights reserved.
A first aid kit should always be carried with you even if you are just going on a day hike or a day paddle. You never know what can happen and a basic first aid kit will solve most minor bee sting, cut, headache, etc. Having your first aid with you can make a potentially ruined day into an enjoyable day. As the old saying goes "Be prepared".
How Many People Will Be Going With You?
Always make sure there is enough first aid treatments based on the number of people going with you. It does no good to only bring a few bandages when there is a greater potential of using some more bandages based on the number of people going with you.
How Long & How Dangerous:
The amount of first aid supplies you need is related to the number of days you will be on the trail and how dangerous the hike is. It pays to bring a little extra versus bringing not enough.
Know How To Use:
It doesn't do any good to bring first aid with you if you don't know how to use some of the items that you brought along. Make sure you also have a simple manual that explains how to treat some of the most common problems.
Pre-Assembled First-Aid Kits:
The easiest way to get started is to purchase a beginning kit. There are kits available for many types of hikes as well as for a specific number of people. Most kits have waterproof bags that can be refilled and reused. Add any additional supplies to fit your needs.
What To Include:
Your first aid supplies should include: bandages(assorted sizes and different kinds), tweezers, sunscreen, moleskin, gauze pads, splint, aspirin, wrapping tape, bee sting products, plastic gloves, sling, thermometer, knife, handy wipes, burn ointment, duct tape, mirror, prescription medicine, q-tips, dental floss, Purell and any other items that might be needed for the specific type of hike you are taking. There are an assortment of small sample items in the grocery store or in the pharmacies that fit well in the first aid kit. Each item is very small in size and they even have a starter first aid kit for about $1.00 that can help you get started.
Keep The Knowledge:
If you don't practice... you forget. If you don't use first aid skills... you forget. Keep reviewing and reading the first aid book and when the time comes, you will be ready.
Friday, 31 August 2007
Thursday, 30 August 2007
Multitool
How to Choose A Multi-Use Tool
By Philip Tulin
You should never hike or backpack without a multi-use tool even if you are out on the trail for only a couple of hours. You never know when you will need one for repairs or just to remove a splinter from your hand. You have several options to consider: a knife or a multi-use tool. Purchase the best multi-tool or knife that you can afford as you won't regret spending the extra money. Someday, one of the features will make a big difference on the trail.
Weight And Size:
Some knives and multi-use tools are heavy and bulky so choose the lightest/smallest tool that will fit your needs.
Multi-use Tools:
The multi-use tool has an assortment of features that allow you to repair and handle the toughest of jobs. The tool can saw wood as well as repair with the plier, screwdrivers and other features. If you are on the trail for any extended period of time and you might need tough repairs, the multi-tool is the correct choice. A kayaking day trip should include a multi-use tool.
All Purpose Knives: The Swiss Army style knives have a lot of features in a small, compact tool. The knives are usually heavy and have toothpicks, knives, screwdrivers, scissors, pliers, etc. There are many models to choose from and each model is dedicated to a specific outdoor adventure. I carry the Swiss Army knife while kayaking and backpacking.
Folding Knives:
The folding knife is a knife that folds away to protect the blade. It is an easier knife to pack than the straight knives. Make sure the knife closes tightly and doesn't have a chance to open up on its own.
Straight Knives:
The straight knife can't fold away and is only used as a knife. There are no other features available. I use a straight knife attached in front on my PFD while kayaking. The straight knife can readily be pulled out of the holder and used to cut deck rigging, etc. that I might become tangled with. The straight knife should have a holder when placed in a backpack.
Figure It Out:
Figure out what you will need based on your hiking or kayaking plans and purchase no less. You won't regret it.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain multi-use tool correctly because incorrect methods might damage your multi-purpose tool and choose your multi-purpose tool wisely.
Leatherman, Gerber, Victorinox, most famous brand out there
By Philip Tulin
You should never hike or backpack without a multi-use tool even if you are out on the trail for only a couple of hours. You never know when you will need one for repairs or just to remove a splinter from your hand. You have several options to consider: a knife or a multi-use tool. Purchase the best multi-tool or knife that you can afford as you won't regret spending the extra money. Someday, one of the features will make a big difference on the trail.
Weight And Size:
Some knives and multi-use tools are heavy and bulky so choose the lightest/smallest tool that will fit your needs.
Multi-use Tools:
The multi-use tool has an assortment of features that allow you to repair and handle the toughest of jobs. The tool can saw wood as well as repair with the plier, screwdrivers and other features. If you are on the trail for any extended period of time and you might need tough repairs, the multi-tool is the correct choice. A kayaking day trip should include a multi-use tool.
All Purpose Knives: The Swiss Army style knives have a lot of features in a small, compact tool. The knives are usually heavy and have toothpicks, knives, screwdrivers, scissors, pliers, etc. There are many models to choose from and each model is dedicated to a specific outdoor adventure. I carry the Swiss Army knife while kayaking and backpacking.
Folding Knives:
The folding knife is a knife that folds away to protect the blade. It is an easier knife to pack than the straight knives. Make sure the knife closes tightly and doesn't have a chance to open up on its own.
Straight Knives:
The straight knife can't fold away and is only used as a knife. There are no other features available. I use a straight knife attached in front on my PFD while kayaking. The straight knife can readily be pulled out of the holder and used to cut deck rigging, etc. that I might become tangled with. The straight knife should have a holder when placed in a backpack.
Figure It Out:
Figure out what you will need based on your hiking or kayaking plans and purchase no less. You won't regret it.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain multi-use tool correctly because incorrect methods might damage your multi-purpose tool and choose your multi-purpose tool wisely.
Leatherman, Gerber, Victorinox, most famous brand out there
Camping Cookware
How To Choose Camping Utensils & Cookware
By Philip Tulin
The important considerations in choosing camping utensils and cookware are: Where you going to be camping, how long are you going to be camping and how many people do you have to cook for?
Cookware & utensil materials
There are a few material options available when choosing cookware & utensils and each one has its pros and cons.
Aluminum: Aluminum cookware is less expensive, lightweight and consistently a good conductor or heat. Meals are usually not burnt because the aluminum cookware will simmer on low heat. Unfortunately, aluminum will dent easily and it is linked to health problems (with acidic foods) in the non coated sets.
Stainless steel: Stainless steel cookware is more expensive, heavier and is not consistently a good conductor of heat as the aluminum (can burn food). It is much tougher than aluminum and doesn't dent as easily.
Titanium: Titanium cookware is the most expensive, extremely lightweight and the toughest of all the cookware. It does not cook as consistently as stainless steel.
Non-stick coatings: Non-stick coatings are only available on certain materials and certain cookware sets. The obvious advantage is that the food doesn't stick to the surface of the cookware, but it also scratches very easily. Once non-stick coatings are scratched, the coating doesn't work properly. Non-stick surfaces clean easily.
Plastic utensils, plates, bowls, etc. Plastic is inexpensive, lightweight and a perfect choice for food containers and utensils. But be very careful as some plastics might retain the smell of the food.
Utensils
You can take as little as a knife, a spoon, something to clean the pot and as much as fork, serving spoon, spatula, etc. Based on where you going to be camping, how long are you going to be camping, how many people do you have to cook for and what types of meals served will dictate the types of utensils needed. The least amount of utensils are needed if you're planning on eating dehydrated or canned meals.
Pot lifters
Make sure you have something to pick up the pots with. The handles that come on the pots might break or become too hot to pick up.
Sets or individual pieces
You can choose your cookware by purchasing a whole set and then selecting what to bring or purchase individual pieces. Each has its own pros and cons. Purchasing a set will be less expensive (but might be more expensive if you never use some of the pieces). Purchasing individual pieces will give you exactly what you need (but you might need other pieces at a later date). Cookware sets are designed to nest inside each other so less room is actually needed and the stove can be packed inside the smallest cookware so everything is in one place and protected.
Be creative
Lids can be plates or frying pans. Pots can be plates. Be sure to bring spice containers with you as spices will add to your meal flavor. Only bring what cookware you will really need, not what you think you might need. Just make sure you have a big enough pot to boil enough water when everyone wants a nice cup of hot coffee at the same time.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your camping cookware correctly because incorrect methods might damage your camping cookware and choose your camping cookware wisely.
Trangia is one of the best avaliable for cookware.
By Philip Tulin
The important considerations in choosing camping utensils and cookware are: Where you going to be camping, how long are you going to be camping and how many people do you have to cook for?
Cookware & utensil materials
There are a few material options available when choosing cookware & utensils and each one has its pros and cons.
Aluminum: Aluminum cookware is less expensive, lightweight and consistently a good conductor or heat. Meals are usually not burnt because the aluminum cookware will simmer on low heat. Unfortunately, aluminum will dent easily and it is linked to health problems (with acidic foods) in the non coated sets.
Stainless steel: Stainless steel cookware is more expensive, heavier and is not consistently a good conductor of heat as the aluminum (can burn food). It is much tougher than aluminum and doesn't dent as easily.
Titanium: Titanium cookware is the most expensive, extremely lightweight and the toughest of all the cookware. It does not cook as consistently as stainless steel.
Non-stick coatings: Non-stick coatings are only available on certain materials and certain cookware sets. The obvious advantage is that the food doesn't stick to the surface of the cookware, but it also scratches very easily. Once non-stick coatings are scratched, the coating doesn't work properly. Non-stick surfaces clean easily.
Plastic utensils, plates, bowls, etc. Plastic is inexpensive, lightweight and a perfect choice for food containers and utensils. But be very careful as some plastics might retain the smell of the food.
Utensils
You can take as little as a knife, a spoon, something to clean the pot and as much as fork, serving spoon, spatula, etc. Based on where you going to be camping, how long are you going to be camping, how many people do you have to cook for and what types of meals served will dictate the types of utensils needed. The least amount of utensils are needed if you're planning on eating dehydrated or canned meals.
Pot lifters
Make sure you have something to pick up the pots with. The handles that come on the pots might break or become too hot to pick up.
Sets or individual pieces
You can choose your cookware by purchasing a whole set and then selecting what to bring or purchase individual pieces. Each has its own pros and cons. Purchasing a set will be less expensive (but might be more expensive if you never use some of the pieces). Purchasing individual pieces will give you exactly what you need (but you might need other pieces at a later date). Cookware sets are designed to nest inside each other so less room is actually needed and the stove can be packed inside the smallest cookware so everything is in one place and protected.
Be creative
Lids can be plates or frying pans. Pots can be plates. Be sure to bring spice containers with you as spices will add to your meal flavor. Only bring what cookware you will really need, not what you think you might need. Just make sure you have a big enough pot to boil enough water when everyone wants a nice cup of hot coffee at the same time.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your camping cookware correctly because incorrect methods might damage your camping cookware and choose your camping cookware wisely.
Trangia is one of the best avaliable for cookware.
Fire
How to Build a Fire
"Know how to build a fire before you have to build a fire"
Fire is one of our most useful tools. Knowing and practicing how to build a fire, with or without matches, is a useful and essential skill to master.
When lost and alone in the wilderness, maintaining your health is essential to your survival. You must make sure that you're well hydrated and that you keep warm and dry. Use your fire for warmth, to keep animals at a distance, and as a signal to mark your spot for rescuers. A fire when you're lost can be a great comfort and moral booster.
I have read of one outdoors man who, when lost in the wilderness, would first build a small fire. His reasoning was that while involved in the act of building a fire he would remain calm, it would help keep him focused, and he could calmly assess his situation and create a plan of action through calm reasoning rather than panicked, knee-jerk reaction.
Considering Where to Build a FIre
Always be aware of your surroundings and take them into consideration. Don't build fire on wet ground, on wet rocks, under overhanging branches, or where surrounding material could ignite. In a natural disaster be alert to the possibility of leaky gas mains before risking even a spark.
If the ground is wet or snow covered build your fire atop other logs. A small breeze may be beneficial to the process to keep the fire going, but protect the tinder from the breeze until the tinder catches fire. Make sure the site of your fire pit is sheltered in windy weather with rocks, logs, or natural wind breaks. If you have already found or built shelter, then plan the place where you build your fire in relation to your shelter.
Fire Starting Materials
Tinder, kindling, and firewood should all be gathered before you begin to build a fire. Naturally all of your fire starting materials should be as dry as possible especially when forced to work without matches or a lighter. An effective fire starting method is to place your tinder beside a stick or rock that is three to six inches in height. As you gently nurse the flaming tinder slowly add fine kindling by allowing it to lean against the rock or stick over the kindling. Build your fire by gradually adding thicker pieces of kindling and slowly graduate to firewood.
Your goal is to build a small fire at first. It is easier for the tinder to catch kindling aflame if it is made into small bits and pieces. Whittle fine shavings from a piece of dry dead wood or leave the shavings attached to the stick on one end to make a fuzz stick. A fuzz stick is easy to make and burns hot. A big help in building a roaring fire.
Practice your Fire Starting Survival Skills
Don't assume that reading and memorizing these general fire starting tips alone is enough to see you through a tight situation requiring fire for your survival. Practice building fire to fine tune your personal techniques and give you the confidence of knowing that you have the ability to build a warm, crackling fire whenever the need arises.
Especially when you practice building fire without matches you will appreciate the fact that it can be done, but how much simplier and easier it is to plan ahead to have matches or fire starting aids available if possible.
More free useful fire starting tips and techniques are being added at The Survivor's Outpost. Pay a visit to pick up emergency survival tips and advice, or leave a post of your own thoughts and techniques to share with others.
"Know how to build a fire before you have to build a fire"
Fire is one of our most useful tools. Knowing and practicing how to build a fire, with or without matches, is a useful and essential skill to master.
When lost and alone in the wilderness, maintaining your health is essential to your survival. You must make sure that you're well hydrated and that you keep warm and dry. Use your fire for warmth, to keep animals at a distance, and as a signal to mark your spot for rescuers. A fire when you're lost can be a great comfort and moral booster.
I have read of one outdoors man who, when lost in the wilderness, would first build a small fire. His reasoning was that while involved in the act of building a fire he would remain calm, it would help keep him focused, and he could calmly assess his situation and create a plan of action through calm reasoning rather than panicked, knee-jerk reaction.
Considering Where to Build a FIre
Always be aware of your surroundings and take them into consideration. Don't build fire on wet ground, on wet rocks, under overhanging branches, or where surrounding material could ignite. In a natural disaster be alert to the possibility of leaky gas mains before risking even a spark.
If the ground is wet or snow covered build your fire atop other logs. A small breeze may be beneficial to the process to keep the fire going, but protect the tinder from the breeze until the tinder catches fire. Make sure the site of your fire pit is sheltered in windy weather with rocks, logs, or natural wind breaks. If you have already found or built shelter, then plan the place where you build your fire in relation to your shelter.
Fire Starting Materials
Tinder, kindling, and firewood should all be gathered before you begin to build a fire. Naturally all of your fire starting materials should be as dry as possible especially when forced to work without matches or a lighter. An effective fire starting method is to place your tinder beside a stick or rock that is three to six inches in height. As you gently nurse the flaming tinder slowly add fine kindling by allowing it to lean against the rock or stick over the kindling. Build your fire by gradually adding thicker pieces of kindling and slowly graduate to firewood.
Your goal is to build a small fire at first. It is easier for the tinder to catch kindling aflame if it is made into small bits and pieces. Whittle fine shavings from a piece of dry dead wood or leave the shavings attached to the stick on one end to make a fuzz stick. A fuzz stick is easy to make and burns hot. A big help in building a roaring fire.
Practice your Fire Starting Survival Skills
Don't assume that reading and memorizing these general fire starting tips alone is enough to see you through a tight situation requiring fire for your survival. Practice building fire to fine tune your personal techniques and give you the confidence of knowing that you have the ability to build a warm, crackling fire whenever the need arises.
Especially when you practice building fire without matches you will appreciate the fact that it can be done, but how much simplier and easier it is to plan ahead to have matches or fire starting aids available if possible.
More free useful fire starting tips and techniques are being added at The Survivor's Outpost. Pay a visit to pick up emergency survival tips and advice, or leave a post of your own thoughts and techniques to share with others.
Tuesday, 28 August 2007
How To Choose Trekking Poles
By Philip Tulin
Two sticks are better than one on the trail. Using a pair of hiking poles or trekking poles gives you balance and takes more stress off the lower body joints. The poles are designed to provide extra stability and to spread the load on your legs and on your arms. You end up in better shape since the poles burn additional calories. The grips and straps are designed so you can push down on them to assist yourself on the trail, but also for quick release if the pole gets stuck between rocks or roots. Always try to use the hiking poles in a store or use a demo model outdoors if it is at all possible.
What type of grip?
There are many types of grips: Rubber, Cork, Plastic and a new Foam material. Plastic is the least expensive and not very practical or efficient. Rubber is more expensive than the plastic grip and is efficient. The rubber grip will be a little colder than the cork grip, more tiring and will become slippery due to sweaty hands. The cork grip is the most efficient, warmer, not slippery, is very comfortable and is the most expensive. Try all types of grips to determine which grip is the best for you. Some hiking poles have an extra section for the grip underneath the grip so that you can shorten the length of the poles by just gripping the poles below the grip (so you don't have to shorten the poles each time).
What angle for the grip?
Most of the hiking poles are straight, but some have a grip that has an angle of about 15 degrees. The angled grip is supposed to help your wrist from getting tired and overused since your wrist does not go back and forth when hiking. I have not used the angled grip so I do not have an opinion on that type of model. The straight grips are the most popular (and less expensive), but try them both to see if the angled pole is right for you.
What type of strap and grip?
Grip and strap designs differ for the type of activity you are doing (fitness walking or hiking). Select the grip and strap to match your activity. Check to make sure that the strap is easily adjusted, even with heavy gloves on. You don't want to have to remove your gloves on a very cold day to start adjusting your straps. A quick-release mechanism for the strap is very useful for emergencies.
Adjustable or non-adjustable height poles?
If you are using your hiking poles for hiking and not for a walk in the park, your poles must be adjustable. If you are not sharing your poles with anyone and the walks are flat, then you can use the non-adjustable height poles. Adjustable hiking poles either have 2 or 3 adjustable sections. The 3 section hiking poles collapse into a smaller length (good for traveling and storing in your backpack). Each manufacturer has a unique type of mechanism to adjust the height of the hiking pole. Take the pole apart and look at how the locking device functions. Make sure you can adjust the length of the hiking poles with your heavy gloves on if you need to when it is cold outside. If you want to be safe, purchase an extra locking mechanism for safety reasons when you are using your poles.
Anti-shock or no shock system?
When the pole hits the ground, the anti-shock system in the pole can reduce the shock. Some poles actually use a spring in each pole to act as shock absorber. The anti-shock system will weigh more, so if weight is a factor, choose the poles that have no shocks. But the anti-shock system can increase your comfort in using the poles. Make sure the poles that you choose can turn the shocks on or off.
The tips and baskets?
There are usually at least 2 or 3 types of baskets for hiking poles: smaller baskets for hiking on dirt, sand, rocks, etc., a large baskets for snow and the largest basket for deep powder snow. The larger baskets will keep the hiking poles from sinking deeply in the snow. There is usually a carbide tip on the hiking pole. Make sure the tip can be replaced by you if it is broken accidentally. Usually there will also be rubber tips available to place over the carbide tip if you just want to go for a walk on the sidewalk or on pavement. Make sure the baskets can be changed, too.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your hiking poles correctly because incorrect methods might damage your hiking poles and choose your hiking poles wisely
Two sticks are better than one on the trail. Using a pair of hiking poles or trekking poles gives you balance and takes more stress off the lower body joints. The poles are designed to provide extra stability and to spread the load on your legs and on your arms. You end up in better shape since the poles burn additional calories. The grips and straps are designed so you can push down on them to assist yourself on the trail, but also for quick release if the pole gets stuck between rocks or roots. Always try to use the hiking poles in a store or use a demo model outdoors if it is at all possible.
What type of grip?
There are many types of grips: Rubber, Cork, Plastic and a new Foam material. Plastic is the least expensive and not very practical or efficient. Rubber is more expensive than the plastic grip and is efficient. The rubber grip will be a little colder than the cork grip, more tiring and will become slippery due to sweaty hands. The cork grip is the most efficient, warmer, not slippery, is very comfortable and is the most expensive. Try all types of grips to determine which grip is the best for you. Some hiking poles have an extra section for the grip underneath the grip so that you can shorten the length of the poles by just gripping the poles below the grip (so you don't have to shorten the poles each time).
What angle for the grip?
Most of the hiking poles are straight, but some have a grip that has an angle of about 15 degrees. The angled grip is supposed to help your wrist from getting tired and overused since your wrist does not go back and forth when hiking. I have not used the angled grip so I do not have an opinion on that type of model. The straight grips are the most popular (and less expensive), but try them both to see if the angled pole is right for you.
What type of strap and grip?
Grip and strap designs differ for the type of activity you are doing (fitness walking or hiking). Select the grip and strap to match your activity. Check to make sure that the strap is easily adjusted, even with heavy gloves on. You don't want to have to remove your gloves on a very cold day to start adjusting your straps. A quick-release mechanism for the strap is very useful for emergencies.
Adjustable or non-adjustable height poles?
If you are using your hiking poles for hiking and not for a walk in the park, your poles must be adjustable. If you are not sharing your poles with anyone and the walks are flat, then you can use the non-adjustable height poles. Adjustable hiking poles either have 2 or 3 adjustable sections. The 3 section hiking poles collapse into a smaller length (good for traveling and storing in your backpack). Each manufacturer has a unique type of mechanism to adjust the height of the hiking pole. Take the pole apart and look at how the locking device functions. Make sure you can adjust the length of the hiking poles with your heavy gloves on if you need to when it is cold outside. If you want to be safe, purchase an extra locking mechanism for safety reasons when you are using your poles.
Anti-shock or no shock system?
When the pole hits the ground, the anti-shock system in the pole can reduce the shock. Some poles actually use a spring in each pole to act as shock absorber. The anti-shock system will weigh more, so if weight is a factor, choose the poles that have no shocks. But the anti-shock system can increase your comfort in using the poles. Make sure the poles that you choose can turn the shocks on or off.
The tips and baskets?
There are usually at least 2 or 3 types of baskets for hiking poles: smaller baskets for hiking on dirt, sand, rocks, etc., a large baskets for snow and the largest basket for deep powder snow. The larger baskets will keep the hiking poles from sinking deeply in the snow. There is usually a carbide tip on the hiking pole. Make sure the tip can be replaced by you if it is broken accidentally. Usually there will also be rubber tips available to place over the carbide tip if you just want to go for a walk on the sidewalk or on pavement. Make sure the baskets can be changed, too.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your hiking poles correctly because incorrect methods might damage your hiking poles and choose your hiking poles wisely
How To Choose A Camping Stove
By Philip Tulin
The important considerations in choosing a camping stove are: Where you going to be camping and how many people do you have to cook for?
Size and weight
Camping stoves can weigh from a couple of ounces to many pounds. The stove that you would carry for backpacking is completely different from the stove used while car camping. Keep in mind that the weight of the lightweight burners do not include the fuel (either a fuel cartridge or tank).
Automatic push button ignition
Many lightweight burners come with a push button ignition. Always carry matches in case the ignition becomes defective and does not light the burner. The larger stoves have two burners for cooking two items at the same time and those stoves are usually used for car camping or boating, etc.
Carrying case
Most lightweight burners come with their own bag to protect the burner from becoming damaged. If the burner does not have a bag, purchase a padded bag for protection.
Fuel is available
Whatever fuel needs to be used with the stove (Propane, Butane, Isobutene, White Gas, etc.), be sure that the places you intend to camp have access to fuel in case you need extra fuel.
Duel features
Some fuel can accommodate a lantern head which allows both cooking and the use of a night light. This is an extra option even though the lantern head must be purchased, too.
Adjustable flame
A knob or little bar will allow the stove to be adjusted to different flames. This makes cooking much easier.
Wind screens
Another option available for the camping stove is a wind screen which will not only block the wind, but also will help to heat the water and food faster since the wind screen traps the heat.
Propane, Butane or Isobutene canister fuel
These fuels are the easiest to use; turn the gas on and push the ignition and the stove is lit. The disadvantage of these fuels is that the canisters have to be deposed of properly. When the can is partially empty, it takes longer to boil the same amount of water and the stove does not function properly in below freezing weather. These fuels tend to simmer better and they are clean burning. When the burner is removed from the canister, the canister reseals itself.
Liquid fuel
Liquid tanks can be refilled, work better in colder weather and burn hotter. They tend to be more expensive than the lightweight burners, larger and heavier. The liquid fuel stoves can use a few different fuel types which is an advantage if certain types of fuel are not readily available. You should always have a second tank available if your only tank becomes unusable.
Choosing the right camping stove for your needs will add to your camping enjoyment. Choosing the wrong camping stove will turn your cooking into a nightmare. Don't forget to learn how to maintain your camping stove correctly because incorrect methods might damage your camping stove.
The important considerations in choosing a camping stove are: Where you going to be camping and how many people do you have to cook for?
Size and weight
Camping stoves can weigh from a couple of ounces to many pounds. The stove that you would carry for backpacking is completely different from the stove used while car camping. Keep in mind that the weight of the lightweight burners do not include the fuel (either a fuel cartridge or tank).
Automatic push button ignition
Many lightweight burners come with a push button ignition. Always carry matches in case the ignition becomes defective and does not light the burner. The larger stoves have two burners for cooking two items at the same time and those stoves are usually used for car camping or boating, etc.
Carrying case
Most lightweight burners come with their own bag to protect the burner from becoming damaged. If the burner does not have a bag, purchase a padded bag for protection.
Fuel is available
Whatever fuel needs to be used with the stove (Propane, Butane, Isobutene, White Gas, etc.), be sure that the places you intend to camp have access to fuel in case you need extra fuel.
Duel features
Some fuel can accommodate a lantern head which allows both cooking and the use of a night light. This is an extra option even though the lantern head must be purchased, too.
Adjustable flame
A knob or little bar will allow the stove to be adjusted to different flames. This makes cooking much easier.
Wind screens
Another option available for the camping stove is a wind screen which will not only block the wind, but also will help to heat the water and food faster since the wind screen traps the heat.
Propane, Butane or Isobutene canister fuel
These fuels are the easiest to use; turn the gas on and push the ignition and the stove is lit. The disadvantage of these fuels is that the canisters have to be deposed of properly. When the can is partially empty, it takes longer to boil the same amount of water and the stove does not function properly in below freezing weather. These fuels tend to simmer better and they are clean burning. When the burner is removed from the canister, the canister reseals itself.
Liquid fuel
Liquid tanks can be refilled, work better in colder weather and burn hotter. They tend to be more expensive than the lightweight burners, larger and heavier. The liquid fuel stoves can use a few different fuel types which is an advantage if certain types of fuel are not readily available. You should always have a second tank available if your only tank becomes unusable.
Choosing the right camping stove for your needs will add to your camping enjoyment. Choosing the wrong camping stove will turn your cooking into a nightmare. Don't forget to learn how to maintain your camping stove correctly because incorrect methods might damage your camping stove.
How To Choose GPS Receiver
GPS is short for for Global Positioning System. By use of the network of 24 satellites that constantly circle the earth, a GPS receiver calculates your location (latitude, longitude, and altitude) using information from three or more of the GPS satellites. This allows you to know where you are (and to navigate to a destination) anywhere on earth. A GPS receiver can take your outdoor adventures further than ever, but make sure to also bring a map of the area with you. Never trust a GPS to help your navigate your entire outdoor adventure since all electrical equipment malfunctions.
The GPS allows you to mark any special place that you would like to return to with a waypoint. This allows you, next time, to find your way back to that special place without getting lost. Just remember the GPS usually has trouble receiving satellite transmissions deep in the woods with high trees, underground, underwater and indoors.
WAAS technology
Make sure the GPS has WAAS (Wide Area Augmentation System) technology. WAAS technology allows the GPS to give you accuracy within 3 meters.
Multi-channel design
Single-channel GPS receivers are outdated and the GPS that you should consider should have a parallel multi-channel design. The GPS has a specific circuit dedicated to a single satellite signal. This allows the GPS to lock in your position fast and accurately with easier navigation through tougher terrain. Take the GPS outside (if you are able to) to see how fast the GPS locks into at least 3 satellites.
GPS memory
The more internal memory the GPS has, the more information that can be stored - waypoints, routes, POI (Points Of Interest), maps, etc. Make sure the GPS has at least 32MB or more of memory if you are going to use mapping. If you are going to use the GPS for sea as well as land, more memory will allow the GPS to get to street-level on land for exact directions. Most memory will be fixed (built into the GPS), but some GPS receivers have removable memory cards.
Waterproof or water resistant?
If you are going to use the GPS for kayaking and canoeing and the GPS is water resistant, a special see-through drybag made especially for a GPS has to be used. Water resistant will be acceptable for all other types of outdoor adventure activities such as hiking and backpacking.
Batteries and battery life?
What type of batteries are used with the GPS? Are they normal rechargeable AA batteries or are they special manufacturer batteries? Extra batteries must be carried along at all times just in case. How long do the batteries last? Is there a battery saver mode (sleep mode)? Do you have to turn the GPS on and off each time to save the batteries? How long can the GPS remain on without turning the receiver off before the battery power runs out?
Map or non-mapping?
The least expensive GPS is the Non-Mapping receiver that just includes a plotter screen that displays overhead the waypoints, the POI (Points of Interest - cities, gas stations, lighthouses, buoy markers, parks, etc.) and routes. No maps are displayed in this receiver. This receiver is actually quite effective for sea kayaking or hiking. The price of this receiver makes this receiver very attractive. A Base Map GPS (the next expensive GPS) displays all the information as the non-mapping unit, but also displays major roads, coastlines, lakes, rivers, highway exits, etc. Mapping GPS receivers bring the GPS to its highest level - total map control with real land and sea maps, marine navigation, restaurants, street addresses, topography, trails and much more (most expensive). You can actually navigate to an exact street address using a map. Usually all maps are downloaded from a CD (extra $). It is really your choice on which type of GPS fits your needs. Remember GPS technology changes very rapidly and the $500 unit that you purchase last year will be sold for $150 next year (or it may not even be available any more). All receivers will get you from point A, to B, to C and to D. If you also want your GPS to be used as navigation for your car, then you must choose the Mapping GPS. I use my GPS for kayaking and hiking and I decided that the Non-Mapping GPS fits my needs quite effectively. Since I must still bring a waterproof map of the area, I prefer to use the waterproof maps as I can see the whole area much better than a GPS screen.
Other features?
There are many other features, too numerous to mention, that are available on a GPS. Some include compass, altimeter, high and low tides, moon phases, communication (2-way radio built in), etc. Find out about all the extra features and one of them might be important to you.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your GPS correctly because incorrect methods might damage your GPS and choose a GPS wisely. Always remember to remove the batteries out of the GPS if you are not going to use it for over 6 months (GPS set up might have to be done again when the batteries are replaced).
The GPS allows you to mark any special place that you would like to return to with a waypoint. This allows you, next time, to find your way back to that special place without getting lost. Just remember the GPS usually has trouble receiving satellite transmissions deep in the woods with high trees, underground, underwater and indoors.
WAAS technology
Make sure the GPS has WAAS (Wide Area Augmentation System) technology. WAAS technology allows the GPS to give you accuracy within 3 meters.
Multi-channel design
Single-channel GPS receivers are outdated and the GPS that you should consider should have a parallel multi-channel design. The GPS has a specific circuit dedicated to a single satellite signal. This allows the GPS to lock in your position fast and accurately with easier navigation through tougher terrain. Take the GPS outside (if you are able to) to see how fast the GPS locks into at least 3 satellites.
GPS memory
The more internal memory the GPS has, the more information that can be stored - waypoints, routes, POI (Points Of Interest), maps, etc. Make sure the GPS has at least 32MB or more of memory if you are going to use mapping. If you are going to use the GPS for sea as well as land, more memory will allow the GPS to get to street-level on land for exact directions. Most memory will be fixed (built into the GPS), but some GPS receivers have removable memory cards.
Waterproof or water resistant?
If you are going to use the GPS for kayaking and canoeing and the GPS is water resistant, a special see-through drybag made especially for a GPS has to be used. Water resistant will be acceptable for all other types of outdoor adventure activities such as hiking and backpacking.
Batteries and battery life?
What type of batteries are used with the GPS? Are they normal rechargeable AA batteries or are they special manufacturer batteries? Extra batteries must be carried along at all times just in case. How long do the batteries last? Is there a battery saver mode (sleep mode)? Do you have to turn the GPS on and off each time to save the batteries? How long can the GPS remain on without turning the receiver off before the battery power runs out?
Map or non-mapping?
The least expensive GPS is the Non-Mapping receiver that just includes a plotter screen that displays overhead the waypoints, the POI (Points of Interest - cities, gas stations, lighthouses, buoy markers, parks, etc.) and routes. No maps are displayed in this receiver. This receiver is actually quite effective for sea kayaking or hiking. The price of this receiver makes this receiver very attractive. A Base Map GPS (the next expensive GPS) displays all the information as the non-mapping unit, but also displays major roads, coastlines, lakes, rivers, highway exits, etc. Mapping GPS receivers bring the GPS to its highest level - total map control with real land and sea maps, marine navigation, restaurants, street addresses, topography, trails and much more (most expensive). You can actually navigate to an exact street address using a map. Usually all maps are downloaded from a CD (extra $). It is really your choice on which type of GPS fits your needs. Remember GPS technology changes very rapidly and the $500 unit that you purchase last year will be sold for $150 next year (or it may not even be available any more). All receivers will get you from point A, to B, to C and to D. If you also want your GPS to be used as navigation for your car, then you must choose the Mapping GPS. I use my GPS for kayaking and hiking and I decided that the Non-Mapping GPS fits my needs quite effectively. Since I must still bring a waterproof map of the area, I prefer to use the waterproof maps as I can see the whole area much better than a GPS screen.
Other features?
There are many other features, too numerous to mention, that are available on a GPS. Some include compass, altimeter, high and low tides, moon phases, communication (2-way radio built in), etc. Find out about all the extra features and one of them might be important to you.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your GPS correctly because incorrect methods might damage your GPS and choose a GPS wisely. Always remember to remove the batteries out of the GPS if you are not going to use it for over 6 months (GPS set up might have to be done again when the batteries are replaced).
How to Choose a Right Backpack?
By Mats Lundkvist
Undoubtedly, backpack is an essential gear for every outdoor event to carry your world along with you. Experts believe that when it comes to choosing a right backpack a good rule of thumb is, "Buy right and pack light." There is a large variety available in the market ranging from expensive to cheap, lightweight to ultra-lightweight and highly fashionable to real basic. So it may turn out to be a real daunting and challenging task when it comes to choosing a right backpack for your outdoor activity. Most of us don’t know what exactly a right backpack is.
Well, a right backpack is the one that sits comfortably on your shoulders and back and make you comfortable to carry your load during long and short trips alike. To select a right backpack you need to consider many things, such as comfort, load distribution on your spine, important features and functionalities you required in your back pack and finally the budget. Among other things, comfort should be on your first priority, because you are buying backpack for comfortable journey. Therefore, to make a good selection decide which feature is important for you, how long is your journey, what is the actual weight you wish to carry etc.
Literally, there is a large variety available in the market to choose from, such as crush resistance, frameless backpack, internal & external backpack, lumbar & torso packs, lightweight, single strap & double strap backpacks, infant & child backpacks, hydration etc. Remember, they are all different so try them actually to see which ones suit you better. Before answering these questions, some important elements should be considered, such as purpose of your trip, duration of your trip along with the capacity you'll need and the features you demand in a backpack.
First of all, remember the golden rule of backpacking "buy right and pack light". That means you should buy the right backpack according to your needs and pack it light with essential things only. A right backpack is the one with the right size to fit your torso. It is the first and most important step to safe backpack use. If you can bring one of your friends with you while buying any backpack then it is ok, otherwise ask the salesperson to help you measure your backpack properly.
Next important point can be to purchase adjustable backpacks. Nowadays market is full of good quality adjustable backpacks. No doubt, adjustable back systems are great, but will cost you a bit extra than your bulk standard pack. Actually, adjustable backpacks will allow you to set the height and weight of the pack in the perfect position on your back. Either you can set it yourself or ask your friend or salesperson to adjust and fit your pack on your back by sliding it up and down until you are comfortable. So, when you feel it is right, you lock it off.
Next is to choose the correct frame size. Remember every backpack is useless (regardless of your good height and top quality of backpack) unless it has a correct frame size according to your body and shape. Gone were the days when people think ‘one-size-fits-all’—it far from the truth. Experts strongly believe that your torso size and your overall height are two completely separate measurements when it comes to backpacks. Actually Wayne Gregory was the first backpack designer who thought seriously about the importance of correct frame size to fit your torso.
According to him, your correct frame size can be found by measuring your torso from the seventh vertebra down the spine to the point in the small of your back which is horizontally level with the top of your hip bones. To find this point, use your fingers to trace the hip bone upwards till you feel the point where the top edge of your hip bones curve inwards, on the side of the hip, creating something of a shelf. This measurement is the torso length, especially useful to consider those packs with non-adjustable back system. In fact this system that is used throughout the outdoor industry today to measure the exact body size and to determine the correct frame’s size.
Similarly, another important consideration is proper fit of waist belt by knowing its correct size. In simpler words, the hip belt is meant for hips and not for your waist. Therefore hip belt should rest on your hipbone, not on your waist, because if it is on your waist then you will carry too much weight on your shoulder. In the same way if it is too low, it is bound to interfere with your walking. Quite frankly, both are undesirable. Ideally with a full pack on, the top edge of the waist belt should ride one inch above the top of the hip bone. Lastly, you should also pay attention to shoulder straps. These days many good quality backpacks are available in the market with adjustable shoulder straps. Backpacks with self-adjustable shoulder are regarded as top backpacks, because in these backpacks the shoulder straps can be rotated to accommodate individual neck and shoulder shapes.
Well folks, these were just few considerations for choosing a right backpack for your hiking or trekking. Your backpack contains all of your surviving things in a wilderness so you always try to select a good and comfortable backpack. The only cause behind the selection of an expensive backpack is comfort, so while purchasing any backpack, do some research to find the pack that's right for you.
Sourcing from Buzle
Undoubtedly, backpack is an essential gear for every outdoor event to carry your world along with you. Experts believe that when it comes to choosing a right backpack a good rule of thumb is, "Buy right and pack light." There is a large variety available in the market ranging from expensive to cheap, lightweight to ultra-lightweight and highly fashionable to real basic. So it may turn out to be a real daunting and challenging task when it comes to choosing a right backpack for your outdoor activity. Most of us don’t know what exactly a right backpack is.
Well, a right backpack is the one that sits comfortably on your shoulders and back and make you comfortable to carry your load during long and short trips alike. To select a right backpack you need to consider many things, such as comfort, load distribution on your spine, important features and functionalities you required in your back pack and finally the budget. Among other things, comfort should be on your first priority, because you are buying backpack for comfortable journey. Therefore, to make a good selection decide which feature is important for you, how long is your journey, what is the actual weight you wish to carry etc.
Literally, there is a large variety available in the market to choose from, such as crush resistance, frameless backpack, internal & external backpack, lumbar & torso packs, lightweight, single strap & double strap backpacks, infant & child backpacks, hydration etc. Remember, they are all different so try them actually to see which ones suit you better. Before answering these questions, some important elements should be considered, such as purpose of your trip, duration of your trip along with the capacity you'll need and the features you demand in a backpack.
First of all, remember the golden rule of backpacking "buy right and pack light". That means you should buy the right backpack according to your needs and pack it light with essential things only. A right backpack is the one with the right size to fit your torso. It is the first and most important step to safe backpack use. If you can bring one of your friends with you while buying any backpack then it is ok, otherwise ask the salesperson to help you measure your backpack properly.
Next important point can be to purchase adjustable backpacks. Nowadays market is full of good quality adjustable backpacks. No doubt, adjustable back systems are great, but will cost you a bit extra than your bulk standard pack. Actually, adjustable backpacks will allow you to set the height and weight of the pack in the perfect position on your back. Either you can set it yourself or ask your friend or salesperson to adjust and fit your pack on your back by sliding it up and down until you are comfortable. So, when you feel it is right, you lock it off.
Next is to choose the correct frame size. Remember every backpack is useless (regardless of your good height and top quality of backpack) unless it has a correct frame size according to your body and shape. Gone were the days when people think ‘one-size-fits-all’—it far from the truth. Experts strongly believe that your torso size and your overall height are two completely separate measurements when it comes to backpacks. Actually Wayne Gregory was the first backpack designer who thought seriously about the importance of correct frame size to fit your torso.
According to him, your correct frame size can be found by measuring your torso from the seventh vertebra down the spine to the point in the small of your back which is horizontally level with the top of your hip bones. To find this point, use your fingers to trace the hip bone upwards till you feel the point where the top edge of your hip bones curve inwards, on the side of the hip, creating something of a shelf. This measurement is the torso length, especially useful to consider those packs with non-adjustable back system. In fact this system that is used throughout the outdoor industry today to measure the exact body size and to determine the correct frame’s size.
Similarly, another important consideration is proper fit of waist belt by knowing its correct size. In simpler words, the hip belt is meant for hips and not for your waist. Therefore hip belt should rest on your hipbone, not on your waist, because if it is on your waist then you will carry too much weight on your shoulder. In the same way if it is too low, it is bound to interfere with your walking. Quite frankly, both are undesirable. Ideally with a full pack on, the top edge of the waist belt should ride one inch above the top of the hip bone. Lastly, you should also pay attention to shoulder straps. These days many good quality backpacks are available in the market with adjustable shoulder straps. Backpacks with self-adjustable shoulder are regarded as top backpacks, because in these backpacks the shoulder straps can be rotated to accommodate individual neck and shoulder shapes.
Well folks, these were just few considerations for choosing a right backpack for your hiking or trekking. Your backpack contains all of your surviving things in a wilderness so you always try to select a good and comfortable backpack. The only cause behind the selection of an expensive backpack is comfort, so while purchasing any backpack, do some research to find the pack that's right for you.
Sourcing from Buzle
How to Choose Tent
Choose tent is not so easy as you think. Choosing the wrong tent can make your life miserable. Especially in the wilderness (where few of us are at home anymore) the wrong equipment can kill you...or at least send you packing down the road to a cheap motel. So take a few minutes to learn to buy a tent. You'll thank yourself many times on cold or rainy nights to come.
How many seasons will you use the tent?
The Summer Tent is lightweight, designed for hot and humid weather only, have a lot of mesh for ventilation, has a rain fly that allows for ventilation and usually has 2 poles. The 3-Season Tent has 3 poles, a rain fly that does not allow ventilation and also protects from the weather, sometimes has a vestibule and sometimes has a skylight window for extra light. The tents are intended for spring, summer and fall. They perform well in wind and rain, though their designs are not suited to handle significant snow loads. If you're a recreational traveler and do the bulk of your camping between May and September, choose a 3-season tent. 4-Season Tent has 4 poles, skylight for extra lighting, a removable vestibule and usually mesh with zipper windows. They are built for prolonged exposure to severe winter conditions: high winds, heavy snow falls, cold temperatures, intense UV exposure, etc. Pick a tent equipped to withstand the harshest conditions you might encounter.
What type of activity will you be doing?
If you are car camping, the weight and size will not be a factor in deciding which tent you will choose. If you are kayaking, the weight and size might not be as much of a factor since the components of the tent can be packed into 2 kayaks (when you are paddling with a friend). Obviously, if you are backpacking, the weight of the tent is a major factor.
How much room do you need for your tent?
How many people will be sleeping in the tent? Are you tall, large, etc. Never purchase a tent without being able to get inside, move around, put your mattress in and generally see how that particular tent functions for you. If the tent is not available, use your sleeping pad as a gauge to how much floor space you will need and lay it out on a piece of paper based on the floor size of the tent. Do you need any extra room (maybe choose a 3 person tent for only 2 people)? If you are hiking, share the tent components as you hike. Someone can carry the poles, rainfly and another person can carry the tent.
How do you rate your preferences?
Rate all your preferences in the order of importance such as: price, size, weight, number of windows, ventilation, number and placement of doors, tent shape, vestibule, sturdiness, ease of set up, color, storage areas, waterproof (floor coating that extends about four to six inches up the sides which prevents the seepage of ground moisture), etc.
Is the tent waterproof?
Check to see if the tent you are considering is completely seamtaped to prevent leaks in the rain.
Will condensation appear inside the tent?
Condensation is something to be concerned about when choosing a tent. Ventilation alone will not prevent condensation. On double wall tents, look for panels of coated fabric, high coated side walls, or coated fabric doors, which always bead up with condensation. Full coverage rainflys often have heavy condensation, because there is no way to ventilate in poor weather. Look for awnings over the doors that can stay unzipped a little in the rain.
How easy is the tent to set up?
If the tent is available to set up, try to set it up!
Where are you going to store your gear?
Usually the definition of the size of the tent (3-person, 2-person) is the number of people that can comfortably sleep in the tent WITHOUT gear. Ask what the definition of the 2-person, 3-person tent is on the tent you are going to choose.
What is the tent material and what are the poles?
Poles are the main factor in determining a tent’s stability. Choose fiberglass poles for durability, and aluminum poles for lightweight strength. Polyester fabrics withstand exposure to ultraviolet rays better than nylon tents and are the best choice for long term campsites. Nylon tents are generally lighter in weight.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your tent correctly because incorrect methods might damage your tent and choose a camping tent wisely.
Sourcing from Outdooreyes.com
How many seasons will you use the tent?
The Summer Tent is lightweight, designed for hot and humid weather only, have a lot of mesh for ventilation, has a rain fly that allows for ventilation and usually has 2 poles. The 3-Season Tent has 3 poles, a rain fly that does not allow ventilation and also protects from the weather, sometimes has a vestibule and sometimes has a skylight window for extra light. The tents are intended for spring, summer and fall. They perform well in wind and rain, though their designs are not suited to handle significant snow loads. If you're a recreational traveler and do the bulk of your camping between May and September, choose a 3-season tent. 4-Season Tent has 4 poles, skylight for extra lighting, a removable vestibule and usually mesh with zipper windows. They are built for prolonged exposure to severe winter conditions: high winds, heavy snow falls, cold temperatures, intense UV exposure, etc. Pick a tent equipped to withstand the harshest conditions you might encounter.
What type of activity will you be doing?
If you are car camping, the weight and size will not be a factor in deciding which tent you will choose. If you are kayaking, the weight and size might not be as much of a factor since the components of the tent can be packed into 2 kayaks (when you are paddling with a friend). Obviously, if you are backpacking, the weight of the tent is a major factor.
How much room do you need for your tent?
How many people will be sleeping in the tent? Are you tall, large, etc. Never purchase a tent without being able to get inside, move around, put your mattress in and generally see how that particular tent functions for you. If the tent is not available, use your sleeping pad as a gauge to how much floor space you will need and lay it out on a piece of paper based on the floor size of the tent. Do you need any extra room (maybe choose a 3 person tent for only 2 people)? If you are hiking, share the tent components as you hike. Someone can carry the poles, rainfly and another person can carry the tent.
How do you rate your preferences?
Rate all your preferences in the order of importance such as: price, size, weight, number of windows, ventilation, number and placement of doors, tent shape, vestibule, sturdiness, ease of set up, color, storage areas, waterproof (floor coating that extends about four to six inches up the sides which prevents the seepage of ground moisture), etc.
Is the tent waterproof?
Check to see if the tent you are considering is completely seamtaped to prevent leaks in the rain.
Will condensation appear inside the tent?
Condensation is something to be concerned about when choosing a tent. Ventilation alone will not prevent condensation. On double wall tents, look for panels of coated fabric, high coated side walls, or coated fabric doors, which always bead up with condensation. Full coverage rainflys often have heavy condensation, because there is no way to ventilate in poor weather. Look for awnings over the doors that can stay unzipped a little in the rain.
How easy is the tent to set up?
If the tent is available to set up, try to set it up!
Where are you going to store your gear?
Usually the definition of the size of the tent (3-person, 2-person) is the number of people that can comfortably sleep in the tent WITHOUT gear. Ask what the definition of the 2-person, 3-person tent is on the tent you are going to choose.
What is the tent material and what are the poles?
Poles are the main factor in determining a tent’s stability. Choose fiberglass poles for durability, and aluminum poles for lightweight strength. Polyester fabrics withstand exposure to ultraviolet rays better than nylon tents and are the best choice for long term campsites. Nylon tents are generally lighter in weight.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your tent correctly because incorrect methods might damage your tent and choose a camping tent wisely.
Sourcing from Outdooreyes.com
Waterproof & Breathable Outerwear
Good outerwear is very important in mountain activity.
And one of the best for this is waterproof/breathable jacket.
Someone that going to the mountain will be better if he/she carry this outerwear.
Waterproof/breathable fabrics are defined as fabrics that will withstand over 1000 millimetres of water (9.8 kPa) pressure without leaking (see hydrostatic head), whilst allowing water vapour to pass through. Their most common use is in outdoor sports clothing and single wall tents, because of their ability to allow sweat to evaporate while remaining impervious to rain.
Rain room tests show that certain fabrics with less than 1000 millimetres hydrostatic head can keep you dry. Such garments tested in the Leeds University Rain Room show no signs of leakage after 4 hours of heavy simulated rain, 5 times heavy British rain. However, some garments made from fabrics that exceed 20 000mm have leaked due to the design of zips, hoods etc. Pressure may not be a good measure for rain wear, as the force of the rain drop on the fabric depends on how much the fabric moves. However, pressure is a good measure for sitting on wet ground or similar situations.
Fabric construction which directs water away from the body can be used to keep the wearer dry, rather than membranes, coatings or laminates. This means that perspiration can be moved away from the body too more effectively as both liquid water and water vapour can be directed. These are generally called Directional Waterproof fabrics rather than breathable.
The breathability of all waterproof/breathable fabrics is very dependant on conditions. When the fabrics become chilled or humidity is high, the dew point may be reached and condensation will occur.
Some common waterproof/breathable fabrics are:
Nikwax Directional Textiles as used by Páramo Directional Clothing Systems
Feather and Fur Technology supplied by FurTech
Gore-Tex
eVENT
Sympatex
3-ply Entrant-EV™membrane Mountain Equipment Co-op
Drilite Extreme, made by Mountain Equipment
HyVent, made by The North Face
H2No, made by Patagonia, Inc|Patagonia
Omni-Tech by Columbia
Conduit, made by Mountain Hardwear
Triplepoint Ceramic, made by Lowe Alpine
Precip, made by Marmot
Watergate, made by Outdoor Designs
Closely woven cotton
Polymer-encapsulated cotten EPIC, made by Nextec
Wax impregnated cotton or cotton/polyester mixes (such as those used in Barbour coats and Fjällräven's G-1000 fabric)
Epoxy (any maker,do not advertise in Wikipedia)
Hyper-Dri by Mark's work wearhouse
Ventile by Ventile
And one of the best for this is waterproof/breathable jacket.
Someone that going to the mountain will be better if he/she carry this outerwear.
Waterproof/breathable fabrics are defined as fabrics that will withstand over 1000 millimetres of water (9.8 kPa) pressure without leaking (see hydrostatic head), whilst allowing water vapour to pass through. Their most common use is in outdoor sports clothing and single wall tents, because of their ability to allow sweat to evaporate while remaining impervious to rain.
Rain room tests show that certain fabrics with less than 1000 millimetres hydrostatic head can keep you dry. Such garments tested in the Leeds University Rain Room show no signs of leakage after 4 hours of heavy simulated rain, 5 times heavy British rain. However, some garments made from fabrics that exceed 20 000mm have leaked due to the design of zips, hoods etc. Pressure may not be a good measure for rain wear, as the force of the rain drop on the fabric depends on how much the fabric moves. However, pressure is a good measure for sitting on wet ground or similar situations.
Fabric construction which directs water away from the body can be used to keep the wearer dry, rather than membranes, coatings or laminates. This means that perspiration can be moved away from the body too more effectively as both liquid water and water vapour can be directed. These are generally called Directional Waterproof fabrics rather than breathable.
The breathability of all waterproof/breathable fabrics is very dependant on conditions. When the fabrics become chilled or humidity is high, the dew point may be reached and condensation will occur.
Some common waterproof/breathable fabrics are:
Nikwax Directional Textiles as used by Páramo Directional Clothing Systems
Feather and Fur Technology supplied by FurTech
Gore-Tex
eVENT
Sympatex
3-ply Entrant-EV™membrane Mountain Equipment Co-op
Drilite Extreme, made by Mountain Equipment
HyVent, made by The North Face
H2No, made by Patagonia, Inc|Patagonia
Omni-Tech by Columbia
Conduit, made by Mountain Hardwear
Triplepoint Ceramic, made by Lowe Alpine
Precip, made by Marmot
Watergate, made by Outdoor Designs
Closely woven cotton
Polymer-encapsulated cotten EPIC, made by Nextec
Wax impregnated cotton or cotton/polyester mixes (such as those used in Barbour coats and Fjällräven's G-1000 fabric)
Epoxy (any maker,do not advertise in Wikipedia)
Hyper-Dri by Mark's work wearhouse
Ventile by Ventile
Compass?
A compass is an extremely simple device. A magnetic compass (as opposed to a gyroscopic compass) consists of a small, lightweight magnet balanced on a nearly frictionless pivot point. The magnet is generally called a needle. One end of the needle is often marked "N," for north, or colored in some way to indicate that it points toward north. On the surface, that's all there is to a compass.
The reason why a compass works is more interesting. It turns out that you can think of the Earth as having a gigantic bar magnet buried inside. In order for the north end of the compass to point toward the North Pole, you have to assume that the buried bar magnet has its south end at the North Pole, as shown in the diagram at the right. If you think of the world this way, then you can see that the normal "opposites attract" rule of magnets would cause the north end of the compass needle to point toward the south end of the buried bar magnet. So the compass points toward the North Pole.
To be completely accurate, the bar magnet does not run exactly along the Earth's rotational axis. It is skewed slightly off center. This skew is called the declination, and most good maps indicate what the declination is in different areas (since it changes a little depending on where you are on the planet).
The magnetic field of the Earth is fairly weak on the surface. After all, the planet Earth is almost 8,000 miles in diameter, so the magnetic field has to travel a long way to affect your compass. That is why a compass needs to have a lightweight magnet and a frictionless bearing. Otherwise, there just isn't enough strength in the Earth's magnetic field to turn the needle.
The "big bar magnet buried in the core" analogy works to explain why the Earth has a magnetic field, but obviously that is not what is really happening. So what is really happening?
No one knows for sure, but there is a working theory currently making the rounds. As seen on the above, the Earth's core is thought to consist largely of molten iron (red). But at the very core, the pressure is so great that this superhot iron crystallizes into a solid. Convection caused by heat radiating from the core, along with the rotation of the Earth, causes the liquid iron to move in a rotational pattern. It is believed that these rotational forces in the liquid iron layer lead to weak magnetic forces around the axis of spin.
It turns out that because the Earth's magnetic field is so weak, a compass is nothing but a detector for very slight magnetic fields created by anything. That is why we can use a compass to detect the small magnetic field produced by a wire carrying a current
Sourcing from Howstuffwork
The reason why a compass works is more interesting. It turns out that you can think of the Earth as having a gigantic bar magnet buried inside. In order for the north end of the compass to point toward the North Pole, you have to assume that the buried bar magnet has its south end at the North Pole, as shown in the diagram at the right. If you think of the world this way, then you can see that the normal "opposites attract" rule of magnets would cause the north end of the compass needle to point toward the south end of the buried bar magnet. So the compass points toward the North Pole.
To be completely accurate, the bar magnet does not run exactly along the Earth's rotational axis. It is skewed slightly off center. This skew is called the declination, and most good maps indicate what the declination is in different areas (since it changes a little depending on where you are on the planet).
The magnetic field of the Earth is fairly weak on the surface. After all, the planet Earth is almost 8,000 miles in diameter, so the magnetic field has to travel a long way to affect your compass. That is why a compass needs to have a lightweight magnet and a frictionless bearing. Otherwise, there just isn't enough strength in the Earth's magnetic field to turn the needle.
The "big bar magnet buried in the core" analogy works to explain why the Earth has a magnetic field, but obviously that is not what is really happening. So what is really happening?
No one knows for sure, but there is a working theory currently making the rounds. As seen on the above, the Earth's core is thought to consist largely of molten iron (red). But at the very core, the pressure is so great that this superhot iron crystallizes into a solid. Convection caused by heat radiating from the core, along with the rotation of the Earth, causes the liquid iron to move in a rotational pattern. It is believed that these rotational forces in the liquid iron layer lead to weak magnetic forces around the axis of spin.
It turns out that because the Earth's magnetic field is so weak, a compass is nothing but a detector for very slight magnetic fields created by anything. That is why we can use a compass to detect the small magnetic field produced by a wire carrying a current
Sourcing from Howstuffwork
Sunday, 26 August 2007
GPS Navigation
GPS – BEACON Guides give a list of key waypoints for GPS users (generally to 8 figures, i.e. 10 metre resolution) and the map is designed to be easily used with hand held GPS units – unique National Grid references with a two letter prefix are used. Given a suitable map, a good GPS receiver can be a very useful supplement to mountain navigation and make a map even more useful but should never be used as the only means of navigation at the expense of conventional map reading and compass skills. Check the batteries are fresh and take a spare set (or two). Lithium cells make good (but expensive) back-ups because they have a high capacity, long life, and work well at low temperatures.
Ideally store key route waypoints into your GPS (from your Beacon guide-map for example) before you set out. Waypoints may be entered into the GPS manually or via a computer using a suitable interface cable and software.
At the start of a walk check that the position report from your GPS receiver agrees with your known position, then at suitable points during the walk use the GPS to confirm your position on the map. If you are using stored GPS waypoints follow the ground (or path) between the waypoints, i.e. don’t expect to walk in a straight line, point to point. Become familiar with the operation of your GPS before using it in a serious situation. See the Mountain Navigation pages for more information.
Garmin is most famous handheld GPS that availabe, from eTrex family, to their newest handheld gps product Garmin GPSMAP 76 CSX and GPSMAP 60 CSX.
Magellan is good too. Magellan Explorist offer so many model from Explorist 100 to 600 and their other model for Meridian and Sportrak.
Ideally store key route waypoints into your GPS (from your Beacon guide-map for example) before you set out. Waypoints may be entered into the GPS manually or via a computer using a suitable interface cable and software.
At the start of a walk check that the position report from your GPS receiver agrees with your known position, then at suitable points during the walk use the GPS to confirm your position on the map. If you are using stored GPS waypoints follow the ground (or path) between the waypoints, i.e. don’t expect to walk in a straight line, point to point. Become familiar with the operation of your GPS before using it in a serious situation. See the Mountain Navigation pages for more information.
Garmin is most famous handheld GPS that availabe, from eTrex family, to their newest handheld gps product Garmin GPSMAP 76 CSX and GPSMAP 60 CSX.
Magellan is good too. Magellan Explorist offer so many model from Explorist 100 to 600 and their other model for Meridian and Sportrak.
Mobile Phone
Mobile (cellular) phone – mobile phones are well worth carrying in most areas and can be a very useful safety aid, but can not be relied on completely in the mountains as the terrain will often block the signal. Normally better reception is found on the tops, but sometimes the phone can be fooled by receiving too many signals from distant base stations. If a phone is carried check that the battery is fully charged before you set out, and know your own phone number.
Nokia, Sony Ericsson, Motorola, etc you can use one of they product.
In an emergency dial 999 from any phone (free) and ask for the police who will contact the local (volunteer) mountain rescue organisation. Be ready to give as many details as possible about your exact location (give grid ref if possible), your phone number, the number in the party, nature of injuries etc. Make sure that the emergency operator knows that you require mountain rescue assistance and what mountain area you are in, so that you can be put through to the correct control centre.
Nokia, Sony Ericsson, Motorola, etc you can use one of they product.
In an emergency dial 999 from any phone (free) and ask for the police who will contact the local (volunteer) mountain rescue organisation. Be ready to give as many details as possible about your exact location (give grid ref if possible), your phone number, the number in the party, nature of injuries etc. Make sure that the emergency operator knows that you require mountain rescue assistance and what mountain area you are in, so that you can be put through to the correct control centre.
Rucksack/Backpack
A good quality rucksack is a good investment. It is almost as important for your rucksack to fit comfortably as it is your boots. Make sure it is big enough to carry the maximum load you need to carry (depending on your level of activity) but don’t buy a bigger rucksack than you require – again take advice and try on as many as possible before making your choice, with comfort and stability being the prime requirements. A rucksack for scrambling needs to be stable, neat and uncluttered. No rucksack is completely waterproof, so protect important kit with resealable plastic bags and/or use rainproof sack liners / sack covers.
Deuter, Osprey, Gregory, Karrimor is some best backpack brand that we can trust
Deuter, Osprey, Gregory, Karrimor is some best backpack brand that we can trust
First Aid Kit
Make up a small kit in a waterproof pouch to suit personal requirements or buy one designed for walkers. Suitable contents could include a crepe bandage (very versatile), medium wound dressing, safety pins, safety razor blade, plasters, blister kit, Paracetamol, lipsalve, etc. Groups will need a more comprehensive kit.
Tip: make your first aid kit a more versatile emergency kit by adding other useful small items such as waterproof note paper, pencil, water sterilisation tablets, miniature tin opener / penknife, miniature survival compass (in case your main compass is lost or damaged), waterproof matches and striker, a little cash etc.
Tip: make your first aid kit a more versatile emergency kit by adding other useful small items such as waterproof note paper, pencil, water sterilisation tablets, miniature tin opener / penknife, miniature survival compass (in case your main compass is lost or damaged), waterproof matches and striker, a little cash etc.
Headtorches and Hand Torches
A head torch or small hand torch can prove a very useful aid to a safe return from the hill in failing light. Some head torches can be fitted with a halogen bulb which gives a bright white light which is good for map reading (but shorter battery life).
Torch and whistle – both are useful for attracting attention in an emergency. The internationally recognised distress signal is 6 long blasts / flashes repeated at one minute intervals. The reply is 3 blasts / flashes.
Headtorch/ Headlamp : Petzl, Silva, Blackdiamond, etc
Torches : Maglite, Streamlight, Princenton etc.
Torch and whistle – both are useful for attracting attention in an emergency. The internationally recognised distress signal is 6 long blasts / flashes repeated at one minute intervals. The reply is 3 blasts / flashes.
Headtorch/ Headlamp : Petzl, Silva, Blackdiamond, etc
Torches : Maglite, Streamlight, Princenton etc.
Map and compass
Essential whatever the weather. A good map scale for mountain walkers is 1:25,000, such as the OS Explorer series or the very easy to read HARVEY Superwalker maps. 1:50,000 scale maps (e.g OS Landranger) cover a larger area and are ideal for planning activities in an area, and in many cases give adequate detail for walkers, but usually the greater detail of the 1:25,000 scale maps will be beneficial on upland areas. The map used for mountain navigation needs to be capable of being used in high winds and rain and normally it will require some form of map case to protect it. The easy to use BEACON guide-maps use detailed HARVEY mapping, are weatherproof and are designed for use on the mountain with a compass and GPS if available. They can be easily slipped into a secure pocket for quick reference. Use a full sized map of the area to plan your routes in advance and take it with you in the rucksack.
A good walker’s compass (e.g. SILVA, Suunto, Recta) with a protractor base and a Romer scale for measuring distances on the map is essential for checking direction, and setting and walking on accurate bearings. Make a habit of keeping track of your position on the map even when the weather is good – it’s good practice, it adds to the enjoyment of the environment and helps a lot if the visibility suddenly deteriorates. See the Mountain Navigation pages for more on navigation with map and compass.
A good walker’s compass (e.g. SILVA, Suunto, Recta) with a protractor base and a Romer scale for measuring distances on the map is essential for checking direction, and setting and walking on accurate bearings. Make a habit of keeping track of your position on the map even when the weather is good – it’s good practice, it adds to the enjoyment of the environment and helps a lot if the visibility suddenly deteriorates. See the Mountain Navigation pages for more on navigation with map and compass.
Footwear
The choice of footwear depends on the seriousness of the route, but good quality, good fitting comfortable boots, are probably the most important part of your kit. Trainers do not support and protect the feet and ankles adequately, modern light-weight mountain walking boots do – don’t buy heavier boots than required for your intended level of activity, take advice from a good specialist retailer (look at the suppliers list on this site) and try on as many types as possible. Ask to have your feet measured and take your favourite walking socks with you to the shop. Alternatively ask the retailer to recommend suitable socks before trying the boots on.
Lowa, Scarpa, Berghaus, Asolo, Merrell, La Sportiva is some best brand out there.
Lowa, Scarpa, Berghaus, Asolo, Merrell, La Sportiva is some best brand out there.
Equipment Notes (1)
Clothing –
Several layers of clothing to cope with different conditions are better than one thick heavy layer. Conditions at altitude are almost always much colder and windier than in the valley. Warm and windproof clothing may not be required when climbing the mountain but they are likely to be required during rest stops, on the tops and during the descent later in the day. The layering principle of outdoor clothing is designed to cope with widely differing conditions by adding or removing layers as required. Pay particular attention to the base layer because this must wick moisture away from the body without causing too much heat loss. Thermal fabrics are much better than cotton in this respect and can be used as a T. shirt in hot weather. Fleece in its many guises is the most popular choice for the mid-layer. A windproof and waterproof outer layer is essential in all but the most stable summer conditions. Modern breathable fabrics are more versatile and comfortable than conventional non-breathable shell garments.
Jeans are far from ideal because they are heavy, cold and uncomfortable when wet. They should be avoided except for low level walks in fine weather. If using shorts it is advisable to carry alternative warmer leg wear. Remember that legs are very vulnerable to cuts and bruises during rock scrambling.
One of the best breathable fabrics is GoreTex, you can find so many brand use this fabrics.
Salewa, The North Face, Mountain Hardware, and etc.
Several layers of clothing to cope with different conditions are better than one thick heavy layer. Conditions at altitude are almost always much colder and windier than in the valley. Warm and windproof clothing may not be required when climbing the mountain but they are likely to be required during rest stops, on the tops and during the descent later in the day. The layering principle of outdoor clothing is designed to cope with widely differing conditions by adding or removing layers as required. Pay particular attention to the base layer because this must wick moisture away from the body without causing too much heat loss. Thermal fabrics are much better than cotton in this respect and can be used as a T. shirt in hot weather. Fleece in its many guises is the most popular choice for the mid-layer. A windproof and waterproof outer layer is essential in all but the most stable summer conditions. Modern breathable fabrics are more versatile and comfortable than conventional non-breathable shell garments.
Jeans are far from ideal because they are heavy, cold and uncomfortable when wet. They should be avoided except for low level walks in fine weather. If using shorts it is advisable to carry alternative warmer leg wear. Remember that legs are very vulnerable to cuts and bruises during rock scrambling.
One of the best breathable fabrics is GoreTex, you can find so many brand use this fabrics.
Salewa, The North Face, Mountain Hardware, and etc.
Essential Equipment for Hiking
Essential Equipment – Three Seasons
The following items are normally regarded as essential for high-level three season spring, summer and autumn but excluding winter conditions. Winter conditions in the mountains require additional equipment, normally including ice-axe and crampons, plus the appropriate skills and experience to use them properly:-
□ Waterproof / windproof outer layer (including protection for the legs)
□ Warm inner (base) & mid-layer(s)
□ Suitable footwear (see notes below)
□ Map, compass and watch
□ Torch / headtorch and whistle
□ First aid kit – lightweight and simple
□ Adequate food and drink – drinks bottle – flask of hot drink in cold weather
□ Rucksack to carry it in
Unless summer weather conditions are warm, dry and settled it is advisable to add:-
□ Hat / balaclava and gloves
□ Spare warm clothes (extra layers for very cold conditions or emergencies)
□ Survival bag or lightweight bivvy shelter for group use
□ High energy emergency food - only intended for use in an emergency
□ Resealable plastic bags to keep equipment dry
Depending on the season and the activity, the following may also be required:-
□ Helmet - advisable for some scrambling routes
□ Gaiters
□ Insect repellent
□ Good sunglasses / alpine goggles
□ Sunblock / sunhat
Other useful items include:-
□ Mobile / cellular phone (recommended)
□ Walking poles
□ GPS receiver and spare batteries
□ Camera (and film for film cameras)
Fluid intake – In warm summer conditions dehydration can be a real problem, the body will use much more water climbing than walking on the level. Take plenty to drink, as you become more experienced you will become better able to judge the amount of fluid your body requires under different conditions. Special water bottles (hydration packs) can be fitted to some rucksacks that allow you to drink via a tube on the move.
Choice of what to drink "on the hill" is mostly down to personal preference, but it is necessary to replace the sugars, salts and minerals lost through exercise and perspiration, hence an "isotonic" sports drink with a good balance of carbohydrates and salts may be beneficial and should also reduce the occurrence of muscle cramps.
Weight – avoid over packing your rucksack – choose the items to be taken carefully, don’t take more than required, and reduce the weight carried as much as possible without compromising your safety. Too much weight will slow you down, spoil your enjoyment of the day and make it more likely that you will become benighted! Getting the right compromise is something that comes with experience.
Note: Sourcing from Beacon Map Uk.
The following items are normally regarded as essential for high-level three season spring, summer and autumn but excluding winter conditions. Winter conditions in the mountains require additional equipment, normally including ice-axe and crampons, plus the appropriate skills and experience to use them properly:-
□ Waterproof / windproof outer layer (including protection for the legs)
□ Warm inner (base) & mid-layer(s)
□ Suitable footwear (see notes below)
□ Map, compass and watch
□ Torch / headtorch and whistle
□ First aid kit – lightweight and simple
□ Adequate food and drink – drinks bottle – flask of hot drink in cold weather
□ Rucksack to carry it in
Unless summer weather conditions are warm, dry and settled it is advisable to add:-
□ Hat / balaclava and gloves
□ Spare warm clothes (extra layers for very cold conditions or emergencies)
□ Survival bag or lightweight bivvy shelter for group use
□ High energy emergency food - only intended for use in an emergency
□ Resealable plastic bags to keep equipment dry
Depending on the season and the activity, the following may also be required:-
□ Helmet - advisable for some scrambling routes
□ Gaiters
□ Insect repellent
□ Good sunglasses / alpine goggles
□ Sunblock / sunhat
Other useful items include:-
□ Mobile / cellular phone (recommended)
□ Walking poles
□ GPS receiver and spare batteries
□ Camera (and film for film cameras)
Fluid intake – In warm summer conditions dehydration can be a real problem, the body will use much more water climbing than walking on the level. Take plenty to drink, as you become more experienced you will become better able to judge the amount of fluid your body requires under different conditions. Special water bottles (hydration packs) can be fitted to some rucksacks that allow you to drink via a tube on the move.
Choice of what to drink "on the hill" is mostly down to personal preference, but it is necessary to replace the sugars, salts and minerals lost through exercise and perspiration, hence an "isotonic" sports drink with a good balance of carbohydrates and salts may be beneficial and should also reduce the occurrence of muscle cramps.
Weight – avoid over packing your rucksack – choose the items to be taken carefully, don’t take more than required, and reduce the weight carried as much as possible without compromising your safety. Too much weight will slow you down, spoil your enjoyment of the day and make it more likely that you will become benighted! Getting the right compromise is something that comes with experience.
Note: Sourcing from Beacon Map Uk.
Tuesday, 14 August 2007
How to survive in the mountain
First
Key of succes for mountain survival is always have good preparation before start your journey.
You must have good equipment and skill for survive in mountain. Not only learn but practice your survival skills. Always carry your map, compass, water, fire starter, garbage bags, a hat and a signaling device. And make sure you know how to use them. Always tell someone when you are going to return.
Key of succes for mountain survival is always have good preparation before start your journey.
You must have good equipment and skill for survive in mountain. Not only learn but practice your survival skills. Always carry your map, compass, water, fire starter, garbage bags, a hat and a signaling device. And make sure you know how to use them. Always tell someone when you are going to return.
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