There are many binocular features to consider when choosing binoculars and all the options available are important.
What power binoculars do you need?
All binoculars have a pair of numbers ##x##, for example 7x42. The first number is the power (magnification) and the second number is the size of the lens (42mm). In this example, the 7 means 7 times closer than seeing the subject with only your own eyesight. The lower the magnification, the brighter the subject will appear and the wider the area that you will be able to see. So, decide on what you are normally looking at: birds, landscape, etc. The more powerful binocular will be harder to keep steady because of the small FOV (field of view). If you are going to use the binoculars at dusk a lot, you will need a larger lens size (maybe a 50mm instead of the 42mm lens. The larger the lens size, the more light that is let in to your eyes.
Coated or non coated lens?
Coated lens also affects the brightness of the subject that you are looking at. Coated lenses increase the amount of light that will make it all the way through the binoculars to your eyes. The more light, the more contrast. Do you need that option? The coating of the lens will increase the cost of the binoculars.
How close do you need the binoculars to focus?
Always test the binoculars to see how close you can focus. Look around the store and focus on the closest subject that you can find. Measure the distance from your binoculars to the subject. Do you need to focus any closer (wildlife, mushrooms, etc.)?
How wide do you need the field of view (FOV)?
Field of view is the width of the area you see through the binoculars. Take two different pairs of binoculars (7x42 and 8x42) and look at the same subject. You will see that the 7x42 has a large FOV than the more powerful 8x42 binoculars (the larger the magnification, the smaller the FOV). How important is it for you to have a larger FOV? The smaller the FOV, the harder it is to spot smaller subjects (birds for instance).
How heavy is the binoculars?
Are you going to be hiking with the binoculars? Are the binoculars going to be carried in a backpack or are they going to be worn all the time? Weight is a very important factor when choosing binoculars.
Do you need water resistant or waterproof binoculars?
Are you going to be kayaking with your binoculars or just walking through the rain? Waterproof binoculars are more expensive than water resistant binoculars.
How durable are the binoculars?
Are you going to be climbing, hiking, kayaking or just walking and not putting your binoculars in situations that you need extreme durability? If you need durability, choose the binoculars that have that feature.
How do the binoculars feel in your hands? There are adjustments for focusing the binoculars. Are the adjustments and the balancing weight of the binoculars comfortable in your hands?
Do you wear glasses?
If you wear glasses, the binoculars must have eyepieces that have eyecups that either retract or roll down. This is important for people who wear glasses and will wear them when using binoculars. Check to make sure that the eyecups are replaceable if they become damaged.
What is the warrantee and the repair service for the binoculars?
Some expensive binocular manufacturers will give you a new pair of binoculars when they can't repair them when they become damaged. Check out the reliability of the manufacturer.
Bino Straps
The bino straps are a great accessory for your binoculars. Make sure there are bino straps available for the pair of binoculars you choose.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your binoculars correctly because incorrect methods might damage your binoculars and choose your binoculars wisely.
Write By Philip Tulin
Sunday, 2 September 2007
Backpacking Clothes
The easiest way to ruin a perfectly good backpacking experience is to have clothing that does not perform well. The clothes must be comfortable and protect you from the elements (wind, rain, snow, etc.). Layering your clothes is the most effective way to keep your backpacking experience both happy and safe.
Layering:
Layering uses a number of types of clothing to create a comfortable and effective result. By mixing and matching the types of layers, almost every situation that can occur while backpacking is covered. By having the right combinations of layers, the backpack will be lighter to carry. Layering consists of lightweight clothing, wicking clothing, inner layer, mid layer, insulation layer and outer layer (jacket, etc.) Wicking clothing keeps you dry by pulling the sweat from your skin and transferring the wetness to the outer layers. Layering will keep you warm when it is cold and keep you cool when it is hot.
Layer Types:
Inner layer clothing wicks the moisture from your skin. This layer is usually worn when there is the possibility of aerobic activity and during moderate to cold conditions. Mid layer clothing protects you during good weather conditions and should be comfortable. Mid layer clothing are usually long sleeve shirts, T-shirts, etc. Insulation layer clothing is for additional warmth during colder environments. It is worn when conditions become extremely cold and the inner and the mid layer does not provide enough warmth. All the layers worn together should be comfortable and not too bulky. The outer layer is a rain jacket, hiking jacket, rain pants, hiking pants, etc. The outer layer protects you from the rain, wind, snow, etc. You should always pack outer layer clothing with you even if you don't think you might need that layer. During emergency situations, the outer layer might be the layer that protects you from a disaster.
Types Of Materials:
There are many choices of fabrics for all the layers. The most important reason to use a specific fabric is based on the type of weather conditions that might occur. If the weather is hot, cotton absorbs moisture and also takes a while to dry. During hot weather, cotton is very effective. Capilene® and Polypropylene are very effective wicking fabrics. They evaporate quickly. Fleece is very effective for cold situations and some fleece have wind stopping ability built into the fabric. The outer layer choice is the most complicated. Do you need water resistant/breathable, waterproof/non-breathable or waterproof/breathable? There are always pros and cons associated with each choice. The water resistant/breathable outerware is usually the least expensive, for shorter trips in good weather and the chance of inclement weather is low. The waterproof/non-breathable is totally waterproof, but also is much hotter to wear because the outerware does not let the sweat or heat out. They must have openings to vent out the sweat or heat. The waterproof/breathable outerware is the most expensive and work in the most variety of situations.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your backpacking clothes correctly because incorrect methods might damage your backpacking clothes and choose your backpacking clothes wisely.
By Philip Tulin
Layering:
Layering uses a number of types of clothing to create a comfortable and effective result. By mixing and matching the types of layers, almost every situation that can occur while backpacking is covered. By having the right combinations of layers, the backpack will be lighter to carry. Layering consists of lightweight clothing, wicking clothing, inner layer, mid layer, insulation layer and outer layer (jacket, etc.) Wicking clothing keeps you dry by pulling the sweat from your skin and transferring the wetness to the outer layers. Layering will keep you warm when it is cold and keep you cool when it is hot.
Layer Types:
Inner layer clothing wicks the moisture from your skin. This layer is usually worn when there is the possibility of aerobic activity and during moderate to cold conditions. Mid layer clothing protects you during good weather conditions and should be comfortable. Mid layer clothing are usually long sleeve shirts, T-shirts, etc. Insulation layer clothing is for additional warmth during colder environments. It is worn when conditions become extremely cold and the inner and the mid layer does not provide enough warmth. All the layers worn together should be comfortable and not too bulky. The outer layer is a rain jacket, hiking jacket, rain pants, hiking pants, etc. The outer layer protects you from the rain, wind, snow, etc. You should always pack outer layer clothing with you even if you don't think you might need that layer. During emergency situations, the outer layer might be the layer that protects you from a disaster.
Types Of Materials:
There are many choices of fabrics for all the layers. The most important reason to use a specific fabric is based on the type of weather conditions that might occur. If the weather is hot, cotton absorbs moisture and also takes a while to dry. During hot weather, cotton is very effective. Capilene® and Polypropylene are very effective wicking fabrics. They evaporate quickly. Fleece is very effective for cold situations and some fleece have wind stopping ability built into the fabric. The outer layer choice is the most complicated. Do you need water resistant/breathable, waterproof/non-breathable or waterproof/breathable? There are always pros and cons associated with each choice. The water resistant/breathable outerware is usually the least expensive, for shorter trips in good weather and the chance of inclement weather is low. The waterproof/non-breathable is totally waterproof, but also is much hotter to wear because the outerware does not let the sweat or heat out. They must have openings to vent out the sweat or heat. The waterproof/breathable outerware is the most expensive and work in the most variety of situations.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your backpacking clothes correctly because incorrect methods might damage your backpacking clothes and choose your backpacking clothes wisely.
By Philip Tulin
Ground Pad
There are many ground pad features to consider when choosing a ground pad and all the options available are important.
The ground pad provides both insulation and cushioning for your comfort. If you don't use a ground pad, the sleeping bag will not perform up to the rated specifications. Some ground pads have an 'R' value rating that indicate their insulation properties.
What size, width and height do I need?
Ground pads lengths are available from 48" - 72", widths are available from 20" - 26" and heights are available from 1/2" - 2". There is a balance between comfort, packing size, seasonal use and weight that makes your decision difficult. What seasons are you going to use the ground pad? How much comfort do you need? What size do you need in relation to your body size? Can you use a shorter length than your body length? Do you need to save space in packing? Do you need a lightweight pad? The insulation qualities of a ground pad become especially important when camping in winter.
What size do I need when the ground pad is packed? Make sure you are aware of the size that the ground pad rolls or folds up to. If you only have a little room in your backpack, kayak, canoe, etc., make sure the pad will fit when packed.
What type of ground pads are available?
The most common ground pad types are:
Air Mattresses - The air mattress is the most comfortable but are seldom used for backpacking any more. The mattress, when deflated, is quite compact and provides adequate insulation in warmer temperature. But the mattress is subject to leaks or punctures and doesn't perform as well compared to all the other types of ground pads.
Closed Cell Foam - Do you have a lot of space to pack the ground pad? If you don't have extra space, this pad is not for you. The ground pad is bulky and only provides a minimal amount of cushioning. The closed cell foam ground pads are very lightweight, the warmest and will not soak up water.
Open Cell Foam - Do you have a lot of space to pack the ground pad? If you don't have extra space, this pad is not for you. This ground pad provides most of the warmth of a closed cell foam pad and more cushioning. But the open cell foam ground pads are bulky, heavy and will absorb water.
Self Inflating - These ground pads are the most popular because they are compact, provide good insulation and are as comfortable as an air mattress. The self inflating ground pads do not have to be blown up and they provide the same insulation as an open cell foam pad. They are heavier than the close cell pad. The self inflating ground pad can be used with a stuff sack to make the packed self inflating ground pad even smaller.
Never purchase a ground pad without trying it out and always make sure the pad will fit easily into your tent (along with other ground pads if more than one person is in your tent). Choose the right ground pad based on how you are going to use it.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your ground pad correctly because incorrect methods might damage your ground pad and choose a ground pad wisely.
Wriet by Philip Tulin
The ground pad provides both insulation and cushioning for your comfort. If you don't use a ground pad, the sleeping bag will not perform up to the rated specifications. Some ground pads have an 'R' value rating that indicate their insulation properties.
What size, width and height do I need?
Ground pads lengths are available from 48" - 72", widths are available from 20" - 26" and heights are available from 1/2" - 2". There is a balance between comfort, packing size, seasonal use and weight that makes your decision difficult. What seasons are you going to use the ground pad? How much comfort do you need? What size do you need in relation to your body size? Can you use a shorter length than your body length? Do you need to save space in packing? Do you need a lightweight pad? The insulation qualities of a ground pad become especially important when camping in winter.
What size do I need when the ground pad is packed? Make sure you are aware of the size that the ground pad rolls or folds up to. If you only have a little room in your backpack, kayak, canoe, etc., make sure the pad will fit when packed.
What type of ground pads are available?
The most common ground pad types are:
Air Mattresses - The air mattress is the most comfortable but are seldom used for backpacking any more. The mattress, when deflated, is quite compact and provides adequate insulation in warmer temperature. But the mattress is subject to leaks or punctures and doesn't perform as well compared to all the other types of ground pads.
Closed Cell Foam - Do you have a lot of space to pack the ground pad? If you don't have extra space, this pad is not for you. The ground pad is bulky and only provides a minimal amount of cushioning. The closed cell foam ground pads are very lightweight, the warmest and will not soak up water.
Open Cell Foam - Do you have a lot of space to pack the ground pad? If you don't have extra space, this pad is not for you. This ground pad provides most of the warmth of a closed cell foam pad and more cushioning. But the open cell foam ground pads are bulky, heavy and will absorb water.
Self Inflating - These ground pads are the most popular because they are compact, provide good insulation and are as comfortable as an air mattress. The self inflating ground pads do not have to be blown up and they provide the same insulation as an open cell foam pad. They are heavier than the close cell pad. The self inflating ground pad can be used with a stuff sack to make the packed self inflating ground pad even smaller.
Never purchase a ground pad without trying it out and always make sure the pad will fit easily into your tent (along with other ground pads if more than one person is in your tent). Choose the right ground pad based on how you are going to use it.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your ground pad correctly because incorrect methods might damage your ground pad and choose a ground pad wisely.
Wriet by Philip Tulin
Cook with Open Fire
Portable fuel-burning stoves are all the rage nowadays for hiking and camping. Between fire safety and the lack of available wood in most public camping areas, I suppose they have their place. But there's a certain mystique about cooking over a wood fire while camping that the little stoves can't duplicate. Besides, it's not really camping out unless you get smoke in your eyes a couple of times.
First, you have to build a fire and get a good bed of coals. It is the coals that you want to cook over rather than the fire itself. You will get less smoke and ashes that way, plus the heat is more consistent and controllable and you won't sear off your eyebrows. For the best coals, you should use the densest wood you can find. Oak, cedar, mesquite, pecan, or other hardwoods make good coals, while pines, aspen, and other light woods don't. Before you are ready to cook, you need to build up at least a couple of inches of live coals and then let the main fire settle down a little.
Ideally, both for fire safety and convenience, you should dig a fire pit at least 8-10 inches deep and around 2.5 feet square, bigger in both dimensions if you plan on staying a few days or if you plan on having a "bonfire" at night. Keep the dirt you remove in a pile to one side as you'll need it to cover the pit when you leave. There are several designs of fire pits, but the most convenient is the Keyhole Pit. With a Keyhole, you dig a little side chamber out from one edge of the main pit. While the main area is used for the fire itself, the side chamber is used for the actual cooking. The cooking chamber should extend a couple of feet (up wind) from the main fire and should be about a foot wide and only about 4 inches deep. When you're ready to start cooking, just shovel some coals from the fire to the side chamber.
The two ways to control your heat are to (1) add or subtract coals or (2) raise or lower your cooking pots or pans. I have used multiple cooking chambers before to obtain different cooking temperatures or just to get more cooking surface. It usually takes fewer coals than you might think for most types of cooking, but that's something you just get a feel for after a while. You can use a small grill over the coals, or you can pre-arrange rocks for the pot to sit on. If you use a grill, it should be easily moved so you can tend the bed of coals. For "car camping" where weight is not such an issue, a piece or two of heavy expanded metal will last forever and is much sturdier than any commercial grill I've ever seen.
One tip to minimize cookware and clean-up is to make some foil dinners before you leave home. These are pre-packaged meals ready to throw in a coal bed for a few minutes of cooking. You start with some heavy-duty aluminum foil, preferably a double thickness about 2 feet square after folding. Then you lay out a piece of meat (anything from ground round to steak) along with some potatoes and veggies like carrots, onions, or corn and your favorite seasonings. Then fold over the foil and crimp it several times at the seam and at both ends. What you should get is a tightly-wrapped, sealed-off meal inside the foil. Then later, just sprinkle a few coals on the ground and lay the package on top. Then cover with a few coals and wait about fifteen minutes. You can cook baked potatoes the same way but they take a little longer. I must emphasize I said a FEW coals. A little goes a long way, and everyone I know has eaten unrecognizable, charred hunks a couple of times before learning this lesson. When you're through, the fire will eat the foil and all you've got to clean is your fork.
Aluminum and other shiny cookware gets very dirty over a wood fire and is hard to keep from turning a permanent black. Here's a trick to help in that department. Before you put the pot on the fire, make a paste from water and powdered soap. Apply the paste to the bottom and up the sides of the pot. Now start cooking. The soot will all stick on the soap, which washes off very easily when you're through. Just don't rub the soap off by sliding the pot around on a grill, etc. On frying pans, you need to come up close to the lip with the paste. Just don't get any where it will fall into the food.
If you are car camping, try using a Dutch oven for baking or like a crock pot for stews and such. A true Dutch oven is a cast iron pot with three legs about an inch or two long, and a lid with a lip around the outer edge. Pots with no legs and no lip on the top are called ranch ovens and they are just regular cast iron cookware. Dutch ovens are available in several sizes from most sporting good/camping outlets. You set them on a shallow bed of coals and then sprinkle more coals on the lid. Just like the foil dinners, you should take it easy on the number of coals you use both underneath and on top. In addition to stews or casseroles, you can bake biscuits or cobblers that always taste better outdoors.
Here's a tip for the care and maintenance of your Dutch oven or any cast iron cookware. After washing, dry immediately. Then use a paper towel to wipe on a thin layer of vegetable oil (no animal fats) inside and out. Then put on the fire (or in a hot oven) for 4-5 minutes. This will cause the oil to glaze and bond to the iron, protecting it from rust and other bad things.
For clean-up at the campsite, I use a couple of 3-4 gallon galvanized buckets. I put these on a grate over the fire till one gets pretty warm. Then I pull it off and leave the other to come to a boil. I put soap in the warm one and use it to wash the dishes. After washing, most everything goes into a mesh laundry bag which is dipped into the boiling water a few times for rinsing. Then that bag goes into a muslin laundry bag to keep the dust and bugs off while it hangs in a tree and dries. The rinse water can be used as wash water next meal, or both buckets can be saved to drown the fire before filling in the pit.
For fire safety, you should keep the shovel stuck in the pile of dirt removed from the fire pit. Just don't trip on it in the dark. A little folding camp shovel works fine. And you can keep the buckets of wash water for the next meal near the fire pit as well. When you are ready to leave, police the area for trash and throw that into the pit. Then, drown the fire and fill in the fire pit. Remember, a good camper "leaves no trace".
I hope you have learned how to cook with an open fire while camping and enjoy your next hike into the great outdoors.
Write by Philip Tulin
First, you have to build a fire and get a good bed of coals. It is the coals that you want to cook over rather than the fire itself. You will get less smoke and ashes that way, plus the heat is more consistent and controllable and you won't sear off your eyebrows. For the best coals, you should use the densest wood you can find. Oak, cedar, mesquite, pecan, or other hardwoods make good coals, while pines, aspen, and other light woods don't. Before you are ready to cook, you need to build up at least a couple of inches of live coals and then let the main fire settle down a little.
Ideally, both for fire safety and convenience, you should dig a fire pit at least 8-10 inches deep and around 2.5 feet square, bigger in both dimensions if you plan on staying a few days or if you plan on having a "bonfire" at night. Keep the dirt you remove in a pile to one side as you'll need it to cover the pit when you leave. There are several designs of fire pits, but the most convenient is the Keyhole Pit. With a Keyhole, you dig a little side chamber out from one edge of the main pit. While the main area is used for the fire itself, the side chamber is used for the actual cooking. The cooking chamber should extend a couple of feet (up wind) from the main fire and should be about a foot wide and only about 4 inches deep. When you're ready to start cooking, just shovel some coals from the fire to the side chamber.
The two ways to control your heat are to (1) add or subtract coals or (2) raise or lower your cooking pots or pans. I have used multiple cooking chambers before to obtain different cooking temperatures or just to get more cooking surface. It usually takes fewer coals than you might think for most types of cooking, but that's something you just get a feel for after a while. You can use a small grill over the coals, or you can pre-arrange rocks for the pot to sit on. If you use a grill, it should be easily moved so you can tend the bed of coals. For "car camping" where weight is not such an issue, a piece or two of heavy expanded metal will last forever and is much sturdier than any commercial grill I've ever seen.
One tip to minimize cookware and clean-up is to make some foil dinners before you leave home. These are pre-packaged meals ready to throw in a coal bed for a few minutes of cooking. You start with some heavy-duty aluminum foil, preferably a double thickness about 2 feet square after folding. Then you lay out a piece of meat (anything from ground round to steak) along with some potatoes and veggies like carrots, onions, or corn and your favorite seasonings. Then fold over the foil and crimp it several times at the seam and at both ends. What you should get is a tightly-wrapped, sealed-off meal inside the foil. Then later, just sprinkle a few coals on the ground and lay the package on top. Then cover with a few coals and wait about fifteen minutes. You can cook baked potatoes the same way but they take a little longer. I must emphasize I said a FEW coals. A little goes a long way, and everyone I know has eaten unrecognizable, charred hunks a couple of times before learning this lesson. When you're through, the fire will eat the foil and all you've got to clean is your fork.
Aluminum and other shiny cookware gets very dirty over a wood fire and is hard to keep from turning a permanent black. Here's a trick to help in that department. Before you put the pot on the fire, make a paste from water and powdered soap. Apply the paste to the bottom and up the sides of the pot. Now start cooking. The soot will all stick on the soap, which washes off very easily when you're through. Just don't rub the soap off by sliding the pot around on a grill, etc. On frying pans, you need to come up close to the lip with the paste. Just don't get any where it will fall into the food.
If you are car camping, try using a Dutch oven for baking or like a crock pot for stews and such. A true Dutch oven is a cast iron pot with three legs about an inch or two long, and a lid with a lip around the outer edge. Pots with no legs and no lip on the top are called ranch ovens and they are just regular cast iron cookware. Dutch ovens are available in several sizes from most sporting good/camping outlets. You set them on a shallow bed of coals and then sprinkle more coals on the lid. Just like the foil dinners, you should take it easy on the number of coals you use both underneath and on top. In addition to stews or casseroles, you can bake biscuits or cobblers that always taste better outdoors.
Here's a tip for the care and maintenance of your Dutch oven or any cast iron cookware. After washing, dry immediately. Then use a paper towel to wipe on a thin layer of vegetable oil (no animal fats) inside and out. Then put on the fire (or in a hot oven) for 4-5 minutes. This will cause the oil to glaze and bond to the iron, protecting it from rust and other bad things.
For clean-up at the campsite, I use a couple of 3-4 gallon galvanized buckets. I put these on a grate over the fire till one gets pretty warm. Then I pull it off and leave the other to come to a boil. I put soap in the warm one and use it to wash the dishes. After washing, most everything goes into a mesh laundry bag which is dipped into the boiling water a few times for rinsing. Then that bag goes into a muslin laundry bag to keep the dust and bugs off while it hangs in a tree and dries. The rinse water can be used as wash water next meal, or both buckets can be saved to drown the fire before filling in the pit.
For fire safety, you should keep the shovel stuck in the pile of dirt removed from the fire pit. Just don't trip on it in the dark. A little folding camp shovel works fine. And you can keep the buckets of wash water for the next meal near the fire pit as well. When you are ready to leave, police the area for trash and throw that into the pit. Then, drown the fire and fill in the fire pit. Remember, a good camper "leaves no trace".
I hope you have learned how to cook with an open fire while camping and enjoy your next hike into the great outdoors.
Write by Philip Tulin
Water Bottle
Your water bottle is your link to life and how to choose water bottles becomes very important depending the length and the type of trip you expect to take. There are numerous types and shapes to consider and the correct water bottle is the one that will perform during your trip conditions. Water bottles are either rigid or collapsible and each has its own features and advantages. Collapsible water bottles take up less space when they are empty.
How Much Water Do You Need?
The size and shape of the water bottle is directly related to the amount of water you need each day and how much water you need in case you can't refill it for a period of time. Keep in mind that your water weighs approximately 8 pounds per gallon. Backpacking needs are quite different from kayaking needs. You will be able to carry more water weight during kayaking versus backpacking. Also take into consideration if you will be using a hydration pack along with the water bottles.
Storing Water Bottles:
If you are backpacking, will you be storing water along the way (and hiding the water bottles) for the return trip. If you are, you will be needing additional water bottles and the sizes of the water bottles will be dependant on the amount of water you will be needing to store.
Flexible Water Bottles:
Flexible water bottles that roll up to save space are used quite often while kayaking. The flexible water bottles fit very easily into small spaces in the kayak hatches. I usually am very cautious and place the filled flexible water bottles into a dry sack in case the water leaks or the bag breaks. I don't want the hatch filling up with water and potentially wet everything in the hatch even though most of the items are in dry bags, too. If you decide to use flexible water bottles while hiking, be aware that the bottles are harder to handle when you need some water and when the water fills the bag only half way.
Bottle Shapes: The shapes available are round or square and each have advantages depending on the use of the bottles. The round bottles fits into pockets on your backpack while the square bottles take up less space in your backpack.
Water Filters:
If you have a specific water filter, make sure that the bottles will connect directly to your water filter. If you haven't purchases a water filter yet, purchase the water filter first before selecting water bottles.
Materials:
Polycarbonate: These bottles are the most expensive bottles and they won't retain orders or flavors. They are more durable and won't taste like plastic. The bottles are usually clear.
Polyethylene:These bottles are inexpensive and might taste like plastic and retain odors. They will not crack easily.
Size Of The Bottle Mouth:
Depending on the type of hiking you do (day or overnight), the large mouth bottles can accommodate ice cubes (obviously not a factor during overnight hiking). Depending on the type of cooking you do, the smaller mouth bottles are easier to pour than the large mouth bottles. Little items that your need can be placed in large mouth bottles (if you don't need the bottles for water).
Wriet By Philip Tulin
How Much Water Do You Need?
The size and shape of the water bottle is directly related to the amount of water you need each day and how much water you need in case you can't refill it for a period of time. Keep in mind that your water weighs approximately 8 pounds per gallon. Backpacking needs are quite different from kayaking needs. You will be able to carry more water weight during kayaking versus backpacking. Also take into consideration if you will be using a hydration pack along with the water bottles.
Storing Water Bottles:
If you are backpacking, will you be storing water along the way (and hiding the water bottles) for the return trip. If you are, you will be needing additional water bottles and the sizes of the water bottles will be dependant on the amount of water you will be needing to store.
Flexible Water Bottles:
Flexible water bottles that roll up to save space are used quite often while kayaking. The flexible water bottles fit very easily into small spaces in the kayak hatches. I usually am very cautious and place the filled flexible water bottles into a dry sack in case the water leaks or the bag breaks. I don't want the hatch filling up with water and potentially wet everything in the hatch even though most of the items are in dry bags, too. If you decide to use flexible water bottles while hiking, be aware that the bottles are harder to handle when you need some water and when the water fills the bag only half way.
Bottle Shapes: The shapes available are round or square and each have advantages depending on the use of the bottles. The round bottles fits into pockets on your backpack while the square bottles take up less space in your backpack.
Water Filters:
If you have a specific water filter, make sure that the bottles will connect directly to your water filter. If you haven't purchases a water filter yet, purchase the water filter first before selecting water bottles.
Materials:
Polycarbonate: These bottles are the most expensive bottles and they won't retain orders or flavors. They are more durable and won't taste like plastic. The bottles are usually clear.
Polyethylene:These bottles are inexpensive and might taste like plastic and retain odors. They will not crack easily.
Size Of The Bottle Mouth:
Depending on the type of hiking you do (day or overnight), the large mouth bottles can accommodate ice cubes (obviously not a factor during overnight hiking). Depending on the type of cooking you do, the smaller mouth bottles are easier to pour than the large mouth bottles. Little items that your need can be placed in large mouth bottles (if you don't need the bottles for water).
Wriet By Philip Tulin
Sleeping Bag
You can have the best clothes, the best tent, the best food, the best backpack, but if your sleeping bag is not the right one, your whole outdoor experience will be ruined. There are many sleeping bag features to consider when choosing a sleeping bag and all the options available are important.
What is the best sleeping bag for you?
Here are the features for the best sleeping bag for you: 1) It performs in the temperature and climate that you camp. 2) It fits your sleeping habits. 3) It is made from the material that you like next to your skin. 3) It fits your outdoor experiences (camping, hiking, kayaking, snowshoeing, canoeing, car camping, etc.)
What seasons will you be camping?
Each season (4-Seasons, 3-Seasons, 1-Season) has a temperature related to that season. You can't choose a 4-Season sleeping bag to be effective during the summer, too. Choose a temperate rating for the sleeping bag based on the conditions you plan to camp in most often. A bag's temperature rating indicates the lowest temperature at which an occupant would be comfortable. But what is comfortable for one sleeper may not be for another. There is no industry standard for temperature ratings and they vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. Every temperature rating from a manufacturer assumes that a ground pad will be used with the sleeping bag. If you tend to be cold at night, you might need a lower rated sleeping bag. Select a 20 degree sleeping bag for your 3-Season experience, Zero (0) degree rating for cold weather/winter experience and minus 15-30 degrees for a winter experience.
What insulation do you prefer (down or synthetic)?
Which insulation is the warmest and which insulation is the best choice for you is for you to decide. Synthetic has recently approached most of the features down has, but they have one distinct advantage. They don't absorb moisture and so they don't lose the insulation factor when down becomes wet. Synthetic-filled bags cost less and are great for people who are allergic to down. For backpackers, synthetic bags weigh a little more and usually take up more space in your pack.
What shape sleeping bag do you prefer?
There are a few shapes to consider - Mummy, Rectangular, Semi-Rectangular. Mummy bags are the warmest, but they are the most confining sleeping bag. The mummy bag also has a hood to enclose your head. Rectangular are a lot more roomy and more comfortable. Two rectangular bags can also be zippered together to form a larger sleeping back for 2 people. Semi-Rectangular sleeping bags are warmer than the Rectangular and have more room than the Mummy sleeping bag. So it is a compromise between the 3 bags. There are also extra long sizes for people that are taller.
Moisture Proof?
Do you need an outside shell fabric that resists moisture and water? Are you going to be in places that need the extra protection?
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your sleeping bag correctly because incorrect methods might damage your sleeping bag and choose a sleeping bag wisely.
Write By Philip Tulin
What is the best sleeping bag for you?
Here are the features for the best sleeping bag for you: 1) It performs in the temperature and climate that you camp. 2) It fits your sleeping habits. 3) It is made from the material that you like next to your skin. 3) It fits your outdoor experiences (camping, hiking, kayaking, snowshoeing, canoeing, car camping, etc.)
What seasons will you be camping?
Each season (4-Seasons, 3-Seasons, 1-Season) has a temperature related to that season. You can't choose a 4-Season sleeping bag to be effective during the summer, too. Choose a temperate rating for the sleeping bag based on the conditions you plan to camp in most often. A bag's temperature rating indicates the lowest temperature at which an occupant would be comfortable. But what is comfortable for one sleeper may not be for another. There is no industry standard for temperature ratings and they vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. Every temperature rating from a manufacturer assumes that a ground pad will be used with the sleeping bag. If you tend to be cold at night, you might need a lower rated sleeping bag. Select a 20 degree sleeping bag for your 3-Season experience, Zero (0) degree rating for cold weather/winter experience and minus 15-30 degrees for a winter experience.
What insulation do you prefer (down or synthetic)?
Which insulation is the warmest and which insulation is the best choice for you is for you to decide. Synthetic has recently approached most of the features down has, but they have one distinct advantage. They don't absorb moisture and so they don't lose the insulation factor when down becomes wet. Synthetic-filled bags cost less and are great for people who are allergic to down. For backpackers, synthetic bags weigh a little more and usually take up more space in your pack.
What shape sleeping bag do you prefer?
There are a few shapes to consider - Mummy, Rectangular, Semi-Rectangular. Mummy bags are the warmest, but they are the most confining sleeping bag. The mummy bag also has a hood to enclose your head. Rectangular are a lot more roomy and more comfortable. Two rectangular bags can also be zippered together to form a larger sleeping back for 2 people. Semi-Rectangular sleeping bags are warmer than the Rectangular and have more room than the Mummy sleeping bag. So it is a compromise between the 3 bags. There are also extra long sizes for people that are taller.
Moisture Proof?
Do you need an outside shell fabric that resists moisture and water? Are you going to be in places that need the extra protection?
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your sleeping bag correctly because incorrect methods might damage your sleeping bag and choose a sleeping bag wisely.
Write By Philip Tulin
Camping Latern
When the time came to choose a camping lantern, I decided that I would choose the best camping lantern that I could afford based on the use of the camping lantern. Currently, there are candle, battery and gas lanterns available.
Room available
How much room is available to carry the lantern. Are you backpacking, kayaking or car camping? Do you have extra room or can you afford the extra weight of batteries? Gas lanterns are not practical if you will be hiking.
How much light do you really need?
Are you also going to using a headlamp?
Choose the same lantern as your stove
If you decide on using a gas lantern, select a gas lantern that uses the same kind of gas as your stove. There are a number of different types of fuel available, including propane, butane, dual fuel, and kerosene.
Noise level
Candle and battery lanterns are quieter than gas lanterns. Gas lanterns are noisy.
Brightness and type of light
Gas lanterns are the brightest and intensive. The amount of light from a gas lantern can be adjusted by the flame. The gas lanterns will also last longer than the candle lanterns. Battery lanterns have focused, adjustable lights, too.
Type of climate
Battery lanterns don't respond well in cold and freezing conditions.
Safety considerations
Battery lanterns are the only safe choice to use inside your tent. Both the candle and the gas lanterns are hot and have a risk of fire.
Battery Camping Lanterns
Battery lanterns display a lot of light, are convenient, safe and you can use rechargeable batteries (obviously not while on the trail). The amount of light can be adjusted and there are also flashlights that also become a lantern. These flashlights will hang right in the middle of your tent and produce enough light for your needs. You should also bring along an extra flashlight or lantern bulb. There are also LED lanterns available. LED lanterns last for a long time with 4 D batteries (almost 12 days). Battery lanterns have maximum durability compared to candle and gas lanterns.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your camping lantern correctly because incorrect methods might damage your camping lantern and choose your camping lantern wisely.
Write by Philip Tulin
Room available
How much room is available to carry the lantern. Are you backpacking, kayaking or car camping? Do you have extra room or can you afford the extra weight of batteries? Gas lanterns are not practical if you will be hiking.
How much light do you really need?
Are you also going to using a headlamp?
Choose the same lantern as your stove
If you decide on using a gas lantern, select a gas lantern that uses the same kind of gas as your stove. There are a number of different types of fuel available, including propane, butane, dual fuel, and kerosene.
Noise level
Candle and battery lanterns are quieter than gas lanterns. Gas lanterns are noisy.
Brightness and type of light
Gas lanterns are the brightest and intensive. The amount of light from a gas lantern can be adjusted by the flame. The gas lanterns will also last longer than the candle lanterns. Battery lanterns have focused, adjustable lights, too.
Type of climate
Battery lanterns don't respond well in cold and freezing conditions.
Safety considerations
Battery lanterns are the only safe choice to use inside your tent. Both the candle and the gas lanterns are hot and have a risk of fire.
Battery Camping Lanterns
Battery lanterns display a lot of light, are convenient, safe and you can use rechargeable batteries (obviously not while on the trail). The amount of light can be adjusted and there are also flashlights that also become a lantern. These flashlights will hang right in the middle of your tent and produce enough light for your needs. You should also bring along an extra flashlight or lantern bulb. There are also LED lanterns available. LED lanterns last for a long time with 4 D batteries (almost 12 days). Battery lanterns have maximum durability compared to candle and gas lanterns.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your camping lantern correctly because incorrect methods might damage your camping lantern and choose your camping lantern wisely.
Write by Philip Tulin
Hiking Boot
Whatever you decided to buy for hiking, your boots are the most important piece of gear to make your hiking pleasurable. If you have uncomfortable hiking boots that don't rise to the occasion, you will be greatly disappointed. And usually, you will be stuck with those hiking boots until you return from your trip. I was fortunate to bump into a small boot repair shop that was able to stretch my two hiking boots to make a little more room for my little toes. Your hiking boots should be your best friend during your trip.
Where to buy:
Never purchase your boots without trying them on and never purchase your hiking boots unles you can walk on an incline in the store. Walking on a flat service will not convince you to purchase the boots you are wearing.
Decide on the price:
Be firm on your budget, but also be realistic. You will use your hiking boots for quite a while if you treat them well, so purchase the best boots you can afford. You can always spend a lot more and a lot less.
Feet problems:
Do you currently have any feet problems - one foot a little bigger than the other, one toe bigger that the same toe on the the other foot, feet sweat, pronated ankles, low arches, etc. Everything must be taken into consideration as the wrong boot will accentuate a little problem. Do you get blisters easily?
Type of hiking:
What type of hiking do you plan to be doing? Are you going on day hikes (with or without a backpack)? Are you just hiking with a couple of water bottles using a fanny pack? Are you going out for a few days and will be carrying 40 to 50 pounds? Depending on the type of hiking you will be doing and depending on the conditions will determine the type of hiking boot to choose.
You will know:
Every hiking boot is not for everyone and the most popular and highest rated boot might not be for you. When you try on a pair of boots for the first time, trust how you feel. Don't make excuses in order to choose a particular pair of boots. If they don't feel right the first time you try them on, they are not right for you... no matter how much you want to choose them.
Weight of the the boots:
Good hiking boots don't have to weigh a lot and don't be confused if the boots are heavy. It doesn't necessarily mean that the boots are a great pair. Many boots are great even though they don't weigh a lot.
Bring your socks:
Always try on new hiking boots wearing the socks that you intend on wearing. Don't use the store socks as a different type of sock will definitely give you a different feeling altogether. The boots should be comfortable, fit securely around your instep and ankle, give you some wiggle room for your toes, but should not slide forward when walking down an incline. Always make sure that the laces are tied correctly and ask the retailer to show you selected tying methods to keep your boot snug. If your heal move away from the back of the boot, the boot might be too wide or the back heal pocket is not deep enough.
New foot bed:
Are you planning on replacing the current boot foot bed with a more supportive foot bed? If so, you must try the boots on with the new supportive foot bed.
Materials:
There are many types of materials and combinations of materials: leather (numerous kinds), synthetic, leather and material, Gore-Tex, etc. The type of hiking will determine you boot type. Leather boots will take a while to break in, so learn from the retailer which is the best way to break in the hiking boots you decide to choose.
Boot treads:
There are all different types of tread patterns and each tread is made for a different purpose. Ask the retailer about the tread pattern in the boot that you are about to choose. Or choose a particular hiking boot based on the tread pattern that your need.
Boot soles:
There are a few types of reinforced soles: cemented, stitched, stitched and cemented, etc. Make sure the soles are completely waterproof and can withstand the punishment that you are about to put these hiking boots through.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your hiking boots correctly because incorrect methods might damage your hiking boots and choose hiking boots wisely.
Write by Philip Tulin
Where to buy:
Never purchase your boots without trying them on and never purchase your hiking boots unles you can walk on an incline in the store. Walking on a flat service will not convince you to purchase the boots you are wearing.
Decide on the price:
Be firm on your budget, but also be realistic. You will use your hiking boots for quite a while if you treat them well, so purchase the best boots you can afford. You can always spend a lot more and a lot less.
Feet problems:
Do you currently have any feet problems - one foot a little bigger than the other, one toe bigger that the same toe on the the other foot, feet sweat, pronated ankles, low arches, etc. Everything must be taken into consideration as the wrong boot will accentuate a little problem. Do you get blisters easily?
Type of hiking:
What type of hiking do you plan to be doing? Are you going on day hikes (with or without a backpack)? Are you just hiking with a couple of water bottles using a fanny pack? Are you going out for a few days and will be carrying 40 to 50 pounds? Depending on the type of hiking you will be doing and depending on the conditions will determine the type of hiking boot to choose.
You will know:
Every hiking boot is not for everyone and the most popular and highest rated boot might not be for you. When you try on a pair of boots for the first time, trust how you feel. Don't make excuses in order to choose a particular pair of boots. If they don't feel right the first time you try them on, they are not right for you... no matter how much you want to choose them.
Weight of the the boots:
Good hiking boots don't have to weigh a lot and don't be confused if the boots are heavy. It doesn't necessarily mean that the boots are a great pair. Many boots are great even though they don't weigh a lot.
Bring your socks:
Always try on new hiking boots wearing the socks that you intend on wearing. Don't use the store socks as a different type of sock will definitely give you a different feeling altogether. The boots should be comfortable, fit securely around your instep and ankle, give you some wiggle room for your toes, but should not slide forward when walking down an incline. Always make sure that the laces are tied correctly and ask the retailer to show you selected tying methods to keep your boot snug. If your heal move away from the back of the boot, the boot might be too wide or the back heal pocket is not deep enough.
New foot bed:
Are you planning on replacing the current boot foot bed with a more supportive foot bed? If so, you must try the boots on with the new supportive foot bed.
Materials:
There are many types of materials and combinations of materials: leather (numerous kinds), synthetic, leather and material, Gore-Tex, etc. The type of hiking will determine you boot type. Leather boots will take a while to break in, so learn from the retailer which is the best way to break in the hiking boots you decide to choose.
Boot treads:
There are all different types of tread patterns and each tread is made for a different purpose. Ask the retailer about the tread pattern in the boot that you are about to choose. Or choose a particular hiking boot based on the tread pattern that your need.
Boot soles:
There are a few types of reinforced soles: cemented, stitched, stitched and cemented, etc. Make sure the soles are completely waterproof and can withstand the punishment that you are about to put these hiking boots through.
Don't forget to learn how to maintain your hiking boots correctly because incorrect methods might damage your hiking boots and choose hiking boots wisely.
Write by Philip Tulin
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